Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
First attempt build a long !
davidjw:
Looks like a great project, and I am thoroughly enjoying the build along, thanks for putting it up. In my humble opinion, I would get the core bent to shape before proceeding with any more layout, as the centerline might change after bending. Then I would draw the centerline as Mike suggested, on a flat surface with a spacer block, and do the layout off that. Also I would bend it to shape as thick as the thickest part of the final bow, this will help minimize twist during the horn glue up.
I wouldn't shy away from going for 58" ttt if stability is the main concern. I've naver made a horn bow longer than 48" ntn, and I am comfortable stringing most of my bows in the field and dragging them through the woods. Once they are tillered and tamed, their behavior becomes quite predictable (unless, perhaps, they are left unused for months, then they may begin to revert to their old ways). I almost always use the korean stringing methods, both sitting and standing variations, the standing method is easier with longer bows.
I look forward to seeing your progress!
Stick Bender:
Thanks for joining in here Dave first off I should call it a bumble along never having done it Before I thought it might help others on the side lines that never did it to see all the trials and tribulations it takes ,on this design the only bending on the core is the recurves the remainder of the the core/horn reflex is put on at horn glue up in a perry type fashion and the rest from sinew cure I was planning after I recheck the lay out is to start thinning the stave to the static thickness dimension and bend the hooks prior to thickness tapering the limbs I was leaving the last third wide tell the hooks are done . I'm basically trying replicate for the most part BowEds prodigy bow !
Stick Bender:
Ok Mike thanks the stave is flattened I meant I followed the crown on the end view of the flat back the grain under the flat back I will hopefully get some time next week end to process the core , going to be busy with work over the next couple of weeks !
BowEd:
Perry reflexing is probably a poor choice of words inducing this reflex.Not the same as reverse bracing.I've made a bunch of these bows.At least 6 without any failure.4 different woods also.Tips are flipped on them all.Some more than others.Reflex induced at stages letting sinew gel and even cure a few days between applications.The sinew being put on crowned takes care of any poisene effect the back may have during full draw.Getting the most out of the sinew so to speak.No delamination problems.Types of applications explained properly clear up misunderstandings.Used the back for the sinew too.Horn on the inside of core too.No problems.Pre tapered core and horn glued together with no twisting problems with core just braced and tips aligned before horn is added.
This will be low stressed intermediate type bow between long and short to get 2 things done I gather from Ritch.More stability and accuracy from the added length compared to a turkish horn and lots of kept reflex with light set back outer tips for speed with a very much lowered mass weight type bow yet way under the reccommended mass weight on an all wood bow of this profile.The reason for it's outstanding fps showings besides design and tillering.I still would'nt call it a holmgaard really either.Some people I guess can shoot really short bows accurately maybe at the range but hunting is a completely different ball game.You are'nt shooting in any comfortable position as at a range and sometimes there is something about a moving wild animal that puts their mind set into a shaky in accurate mess.I guess practicing is the key here but I can't seem to get the hang of it.Too fidgity.Longer bows have always been more accurate and dependable in that department for hunting for me speaking from lots of experience.Guess it's a personal thing.
Anyway all I can say is that not one of the bows I've made in this way has failed from a construction type flaw and I know that sometimes through inquiring we all hear something we don't want to hear as far as advice.I wish sometimes people would put way all these hard line scare tactics to new bow makers without full explanations for their statements.I realize there are things to be aware of but stating that something wo'nt work when it does is incorrect.Could be lack of info and understanding here also.
Stick Bender:
Yes it was a poor choice of words on my part I meant the horn is applied and secured with rubber band type clamp,Smooth on and then put on the form to induce the reflex during cure the form will 8 in reflexed In hopes of keeping 5-6 in. Of core/horn reflex prior to sinew this style bow can be confusing in it's idenity in the sense it sort of a Asian/Amercan Indian/moderen fusion hunting type bow for lack of better words...lol The details are in Ed's Prodigy thread below I'm just trying to replicate it's construction more or less , all the different thoughts are appreciated as I would like to make a Magyar bow in the future with more traditional construction !
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