Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Help on warbow/longbow tiller - first post! / now with pics...
FilipT:
For that hazel bow I am currently making I liked to use AutoCAD to trace lines and see where it bends more and less. Then I compared what the software showed to what bowyers said and it's basically the same.
Of course, con of this is that you have to have this software, but since I am studying mechanical engineering it was logically for me to use this, instead Paint for example.
willie:
the number for the last bow I tillered this way was 1.2
BTW, Joachim mentioned the same number as an example when comparing the ratio of the long axis to the short axis, but for the sake of clarity, I am using this ratio to proportion the long axis of the ellipse to the bows overall length.
for instance, in the case of a 70" bow, the long axis of the ellipses I drew on my backboard were all 84", and if I want to keep the tips somewhat stiffer (for say the last six inches), I just make the bow fit the ellipse only for the inner 58"
the 1.2 factor was chosen for a slightly stiff handled bow that can be seen here
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,59758.msg830731.html#msg830731
of course for a fuller compass type tiller, the ratio should be increased to get further away from the rapidly changing radius at the ends of the ellipse.
fitting a bow to an ellipse and fitting an ellipse to an already tillered bow is two different things, and I agree with Del that if you are selecting ellipses to overlay a pic of a drawn bow, there are a multiplicity of ellipses that have a chord that will match.
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