Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Kiln dried Douglas fir = bad
DC:
--- Quote from: DC on November 28, 2017, 07:46:48 pm ---
--- Quote from: loefflerchuck on November 28, 2017, 07:27:51 pm ---Bryce, The wood was perfect grain and between 26-30 rpi. Pretty tight for fir I have seen. Surewood does it best. I see they hand split their fir to season. I like the ease of the two blade shaft maker but guess if I want to use this wood hand planing is the way. How long does it take to hand plane 120 shafts? Maybe be done in a few years.
Russ, sounds like we had the exact same experience. Wish I talked to you before my purchase. You paid $5 more than me. I may give your idea a try.
The 3 shafts that did survive are around 55-58# spine at 11/32
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Do you need all 120 now? Hand planing can go pretty quick. Make a "V" groove jig to hold them, maybe 1/2 hour each. I'm guessing, I never kept track when I was planing them.
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I was way out on time. I just made an arrow shaft so I decided to time myself. I planed it in a "V" block to round and rough size. Then I grabbed it in a drill and bought it to finished spine on the belt sander. Took around 10 minutes start to finish. I didn't rush but I didn't do anything else either :D
Jim Davis:
+1 on the need to cut DF with the grain. I cut my squares to 3/8" and run them through my router setup, as suggested above. I also use a sanding disc setup to taper the nock and point ends.
As for kiln drying, lots of us get one area of an arrow far hotter than that to straighten a kink.
BTW, would somebody tell me where they are buying DF and paying $80-$85 for a board!!!??? When I buy lumber for shafts, I buy spruce dimension lumber with good grain and if there are knots, they are spaced at least 30" apart. 2X6s often have good sections.
TSA:
Jim, the issue is not so much the heat- but having said that waaay too much heat will destroy any wood, but its rather the heat being applied while the mc of the wood is very high, and the heat is used ( and sometimes steam is used in the kilns too) to expel the moisture in the wood, and as time is money in the mills, this is done at a rate that the cell walls cannot handle. The consequences are an excessive expansion of the moisture in the cells and the very rapid movement of the moisture from the core of the piece of lumber towards the outside that it actually ruptures the cell walls.
moisture is intended to move through the tree naturally via the slow and natural process of osmosis, when it is forced, there is damage.
DC:
What does kiln drying do to the arrow wood as far as spine and weight are concerned?
willie:
wayne, have you looked into low temp dehumidification "kiln" drying?
--- Code: ---https://www.nyle.com/lumber-drying-systems/lumber-kiln-drying/dehumidifcation-kilns/
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