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Looking for help with arrow tuning

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txdm:
Hello, I've been working on some first arrows from Yaupon with feathers and copper-tubing field tips crimped flat and cut to a point. Each one gets a little better, but now I'm getting some that are all "good" but not consistent.

First question is about an arrow I'm currently bare-shaft tuning. On one side is quite a bit too light, and the other its way too stiff. The knock is just a 1/4" self-knock, no fletchings on the arrow yet.

Since the arrow is 29" long, I can still re-do the knock. Does it sound like I should cut the knock off and make a new one at a different index, or should I continue tuning the arrow to one of the two current sides?


Second question is regarding a pair of arrows that don't match. Both are yaupon and the same diameter (pretty much).



Arrow 1 is 28" long, fletched with three 4" chicken wing feathers (my birds), has ~100gr tip.

Arrow 2 is 29" long, fletched with three 4" turkey feathers (my bird), and has a ~100gr tip.


Both arrows were bare shaft tested to fly very straight, but Arrow 2 loses much of its speed and falls a foot over 15 yards compared to Arrow 1.

Should I try trimming the turkey feathers down closer to the shaft? I shoot 15-25 yards when I practice.

Side notes:: The chicken feathers on Arrow 1 are softer than turkey feathers, and will be less durable and rain-worthy. Also Arrow 1 is bound with Dacron b50 which is messy compared to the basic artificial sinew on Arrow 2.  I expect to have to refletch Arrow 1 after another few hundred shots, but it sure shoots fast!

jeffp51:
If you want two arrows to match, you need to keep them as similar as possible-same weight and same spine, same wood and tip and feathers. Both of those arrows likely shoot fine, just not the same. Get a grain scale and learn how to test spine, and your arrows will get more consistent.

aaron:
for the arrow that is too weak one way and too stiff the other- I don't think this has ever happened to me, but I would probably abandon it.
for the arrow that seems to fall quickly- trimming the feathers may help a little. If it really does hit a foot lower than the other one at 15 yards, it may be a lot heavier.
Like Jeff said, it's nice to have a grain scale ($15) and a spine tester (make one for $20- see poor folk bows dot com) Start with shafts that are the same length, within about 20 grains in weight, within 1/16 diameter, within 5 lbs spine. Use same feathers with same cut and make all points same.
Other comments- bare shafting arrows is tricky- false readings are common. Work on achieving a consistent release and draw length.
100 grain points are pretty light- try adding some lead or more copper to increase them to 200. This may make them fly better.

txdm:
Thanks I do have a grain scale.

The one that falls is 578, and the one with chicken feathers is 547.

I've got a few dozen more shoots to work with, so I'll set the odd one aside for now.

Pat B:
Always put the stiff side of the arrow against the bow and cut the nock perpendicular to that.
What bow are you shooting your arrows from?

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