Main Discussion Area > Primitive Skills
Life is Good (Up in The Northwest)
Allen7:
Thanks for the compliments on the points. However, I'm not as good on the bigger knapping stuff. I'll put some of these new points on some primitive arrows when I get time. I haven't finished with the "Mascot" family flakes yet. Here is a photo of some of my primitive arrows. Most are syringa or wild rose shafts, with wild turkey or canadian goose fletchings, Obsidian tips, and put together with deer leg sinew, hide glue , and my own ponderosa pine pitch goo. The bottom one is one of my practice arrows with a primitive steel tip hammered out of a nail. The top one is an example of a reed arrow: with a cattail stem main shaft, hickory foreshaft and hickory nock insert. I've also made reed arrows out of the tall phragmites reeds. Back when I was 12 years old in Alabama, I used to make some crude arrows using river cane, steel nail tips, and leaves for fletching. I had forgotten about the hammered steel nail points until about 8 years ago. They make great primitive practice points.
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Otoe Bow:
How do cattail shafts work for you? They would appear to be rather light. Them's some good looking arrows.
Mike
Knocker:
Hey D. Tiller,
Dave, I sent you an email. Did you receive it?
Keith
Allen7:
I haven't shot the cattail arrows very much. However, the ones I've shot out of my 38 - 45 lb bows did pretty well. They are light, only weighed about 260 - 290 grains, but were fast. You should reinforce the nock and front areas of main shaft with sinew. Also, make the cattail main shaft to your full draw length. I have used a variety of foreshaft material including several hardwoods, syringa, and wild rose stems. The reed arrows are typically not as durable as other shafts, but are very functional.
Allen Minton
D. Tiller:
--- Quote from: Knocker on April 04, 2008, 02:30:16 am ---Hey D. Tiller,
Dave, I sent you an email. Did you receive it?
Keith
--- End quote ---
Hi Keith!
Nope, dont see that post. Whats up?
David T
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