Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
BowEd:
You are correct in saying the higher reflexed bows will be more touchy to tiller,[especially horn as it's not as stable or more elastic than wood]but when balanced good and settled in they should be good to go.In the past I've used a peg board to help with tillering and bracing of highly reflexed bows.
I'm sure Tom has his own methods to help you out with that also.So you will use a scraper or pocket knife to remove materials to edge your way into a good balanced tiller then while keeping the belly faceted or rounded?
NorthHeart:
More material is removed off the shorter of the two bows. It wont be much longer until it's ready to brace.
NorthHeart:
Picked back up on the horn bows today. Swapping the Ferriers rasp for the draw knife held perpendicular to the horn really suited my taste, dust now becomes shavings. The short bow is a low brace, got some significant limb twist on one end, probably gonna try some gentle heat bending, but no telling if it’s gonna become a bow or just a horn that looks like a bow. The larger of the two is looking a bit more promising with no twist in the tips so far, just slighty offset. I spent about 5 hours today and 5 hours yesterday to take them from really thick horn to something that flexes. Much of the sinew on the back and the ends I have decided to remove. Live and learn as you do these things, ya know.
NorthHeart:
longer bow pics...
JNystrom:
Looking good! Live and learn, i think we all know that feeling... :D
To me that sideways twist isn't looking too bad. There is no other material better for heat bending/manipulation than horn and sinew. You can do wonderful things whenever you have a twist in hornbow. Its not nearly the same case with wood bows, not even with horn-wood-sinew composites. Only problem might be that the bow will want to twist in the future, but i wouldn't worry it too much.
Good luck! Gonna be a bunchy bow, what kind of poundage and draw are you after?
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