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240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
NorthHeart:
You nailed it BowEd. Deflexing these bows on the board has definitely caught some flack, and i get that. I too was skeptical myself. But i figure listen to the man whos built them most his life and take his advice. When i remove them we will see how much they go back, if at all. And in the end how they perform on the shot will be my determining factor. I plan to chrono them for comparisons sake to my wood bows.
BowEd:
I truely believe after taking them off the form and I'm sure Tom has told you too along with Chucks' experienced statements that it will reflex good yet.Horn is way more elastic than wood.I''ve only done wood core sinewed horn bows.
The thing too about being so reflexed when dry is that even though it gets braced it can be quite a bit more unstable and a person will have to babysit it until it settles in.Using bicycle rubber innertube sections to help hold it in tiller good.It's just all the process of making these type bows.It's a good thing and completely different adventure than making a regular wooden bow.A lot of useful experience is gotten and learned from making these bows.
In Tom's video there's something that bothered me though.He said he's never seen a wooden bow shoot as fast as a all horn hornbow.This really is'nt true.The old unmerciful extractor of truth chronograph does'nt lie.
NorthHeart:
Over the last few weeks i conversed with Chuck Loeffler a bit, and decided to deviate slightly from my original plan by removing the bows from their braced position on the wood blocks. I am also going to add a bit more sinew after taking into consideration the current horn/sinew ratio. I do believe Toms method of tying the bows into deflex while they dry has value. I surmise they are easier to brace with a lesser chance of them debracing on the shot, which is exactly what he stated. I also suspect less chance of the limb tips twisting with them lashed down into a fixed position. We will see in the future whether i made a wise decision.
After unlashing, the longer bow did indeed give back to a lesser deflexed state, though still not reflexed. I added another layer of sinew 1.5 weeks ago, and now i am getting a bit of reflex. I did this by sanding the sinew, sizing with hide glue and then adding more back sinew. The shorter bow remained almost the same after it was removed. I believe this is due to the shape of the horn, particularly how the splice "angled" one limb back a bit so to speak. I am probably going to add a bit more sinew to this one as well. Not sure if it will dry into reflex but maybe a bit less deflex. Then i'm going to wait some more and see what they both do. Today i lashed the handles more. I did a fairly rough job, i will likely sand it down a bit and do a nicer final layer in the future.
Mounter:
cant give you any advise but i am watching with great interest..... luv what your doing
NorthHeart:
--- Quote from: Mounter on May 22, 2018, 08:54:01 pm ---cant give you any advise but i am watching with great interest..... luv what your doing
--- End quote ---
You got it man, i love sharing this journey of the horn bow!
--- Quote from: BowEd on April 15, 2018, 07:17:04 am ---In Tom's video there's something that bothered me though.He said he's never seen a wooden bow shoot as fast as a all horn hornbow.This really is'nt true.The old unmerciful extractor of truth chronograph does'nt lie.
--- End quote ---
BowEd i agree with your comment. The bow design is just as important as its materials IMO. Assuming they make it to the shooting phase these horn bows will both see chrono action. I love my chrono. It takes my "oh this feels fast" sentiment and puts it to the test.
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