Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Method for testing hafted trade points?
			Mesophilic:
			
			Gentlemen, after years of dreaming and many disappointments applying...I finally got drawn for archery elk. 
First hunt no less!
I may not be able to make a bow that I feel comfortable with at this stage, but I can make my arrows.
Do any of you have a tried and true method for testing hafted trade points?  I've made about a half dozen differing styles.    So far I've hafted half of them and they're standing up nicely against 3D critter targets and the dirt around the targets from misses.  Shooting along side some name brand glue on broad heads, and the shafts, targets, and dirt don't seem to notice the difference.
Thanks, guys.
		
			PEARL DRUMS:
			
			If they stand up to a foam 3D target and dirt and dont wince, then you wont have a problem with them. They only need to work once. I use real sinew and epoxy applied with a brush. They dont come off.......ever :)
		
			archeryrob:
			
			Yea, like Pearl said, if you are shooting them into something and it doesn't split the arrow and the head doesn't twist sideways, you are good.
One of the best ways is to set the head and stand it on the broadhead tip and spin the arrow. If you have the head not aligned with the shaft and balanced you will notice it clearly at this point.
I copied some Susquehannock copper points I saw that had holes to lash them to the shaft. They were triangle points, but I increased the cut angle and added the tang to strengthen it. I use a couple pieces of leg sinew to lash the broadhead in without glue or anything. I can shoot in the dirt or what ever and if it comes loose, dulls or gets messed up I can change it and be ready to use the arrow in a day again. 
I personally think you sound like you just need more confidence in your setup. I would hang a 2x4 scrape over your foam deer and shoot for it. You are not going to hit anything this hard on the deer/elk. The trade point probably won't come out without needing to be relashed, but once you see you arrow destroying wood and not breaking you'll have plenty of confidence to draw down and release on an elk. You'll also learn if you arrows have a weakness and improve them if you do. Just split the 2x4 scraps and get you arrow back out if it sinks deep.
		
			osage outlaw:
			
			Can you post some pictures of your points?  Do they have side notches?  I made some with side notches.  I killed a deer with them but the notches caught the tissue and hurt the penetration.  I won't use that style any more.  
		
			ntvbowyer1969:
			
			I test mine in a block target. They should hold up to shooting them all you want. the sinew might start to fray a little but just rewipe with hide glue resharpen and away you go for elk. 
		
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