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Dogwood Arrows

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Tinker:
Hello everyone.

I'm about to try my hand at building my first set of arrows. I'm using dogwood arrow shafts because they are long enough for me to work with, and the price was right.  I have a 34" draw and I will be shooting them from my 50# self bow.
I know I will have to turn the ends down for my pionts on the fat end, and my fletching will go on the skinny end along with cutting my knock.
I am looking for helpful tips from those that have done this build before.

Thank you: Tinker

sleek:
With a wing span like you got,  you may benefit by learning about war bow arrows?

bjrogg:
Tinker, I've made a few from Red Osier Dogwood shoots. I like to harvest them on the thicker side and file them to the right spine with my rasp. I file from a little behind center and forward till I get the spine I'm wanting. Then I file the front till I get the weight I'm wanting. I like to bareshaft to tune my arrows to my bow.
   It seems like I need about 8 lbs heavier spine for tapered arrows. They flex further back putting more weight ahead of the bend. They are stiffer on impact though.
    With a 34" long draw your going to need a pretty stiff shaft. I think the formula is something like add 5 lbs for each inch over 28 inches. I might have that wrong. If so someone please correct me. I believe that's with a 125 grain point.
    For points there are several options.
1) sometimes I just use screw in points. First I wrap the end of shaft with sinew to keep it from splitting. Then I drill a hole slightly smaller diameter then the threaded section of the screw on point. Then drill the first quarter inch with a drill the size of the shoulder or unthreaded section of points. Then I screw it in. Usually it will stay right in especially if shaft is slightly larger diameter than point, but sometimes I put a bit of pitch glue on to help hold it in place.
   
2) you can tapper the tip and use glue on point. No need to wrap sinew on front of shaft then.

3) you could use double headed nail and grind off the first head grinding shank between heads into a sharp point. You will have to wrap Dogwood shaft with sinew. Then drill arrow shaft with a drill diameter that fits snugly. You can cut shank of nail to get the weight you want. Dbar is the man for this point.
 
For self knocks again wrap the end of shaft. I use two hacksaw blades to cut my knock. Then I file it till it snugly fits my string with my leatherman.
 Hope that helps you out they make some beautiful durable arrows. They can take a bit of work to keep straight.
Bjrogg

sleek:
For self nocks i use a drill bit slightly larger than the served string. I drill a hole straight through where the string will sit, 90 degrees to the rings ( prevents split out ). The i take an exacto blade, and slice it from the back of the arrow to the hole. I then take small slices off, making the nock, until the string pops tightly with force through the split and into the drilled hole. Thwn i use sandpaper to round the edges well. By time the edges are rounded nicely, the string takes just the right amount of force to pop in and out of the nock.

osage outlaw:
With your draw length you could probably fletch up some 1/2" oak dowels and use them for arrows  ;D

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