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shaft and feather orientation

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okware:
its been a while since i've been involved in any of this but here goes. I was under the impression that  the narrow end of a naturally tapered shaft was used to accept the projectile point, is that now changed? my father and his buddies were doing this stuff back in the in the 60's and now that im retired I want to get back into it, seems things have changed. i've seen the hamm, waldorf and wallentine books that all used the narrow end of the shaft for the point?  my second question is about the 2 fletch. on a right curved turkey tail feather which side of the feather is stripped short the longer vanes on right side or the shorter vanes on the left. if anyone could shed some light on this.

Pat B:
Weight forward helps an arrow fly better and the big(butt) end of a shoot shaft naturally allows for weight forward arrows. I have seen a few Native arrows with the butt end the nock but they are not common from my viewpoint.

okware:
so in your opinion what would the diameter of the knock end need to be for reasonable grip.(5/16")I hope or i've cut about 30 useless shafts. I recently got a copy of native American bows arrows and quivers, which is why im questioning what I thought to be the most common setup a large portion of these woodland shafts were split from hardwood and not shoots at all as I originally believed to be true.

Hawkdancer:
I'm not real experienced as an arrow smith,  but you could probably build up the nock area with sinew, or rawhide wraps to get enough diameter.  Do what works!  Welcome back to the fold!  These folks have a wealth of knowledge to tap.
Hawkdancer

Pat B:
5/16" is what my sourwood shoot arrow nocks are and about 3/8" or slightly less for the point end on a 30" arrow.
 If you are trying to make arrows with a pinch type nock, (bulbous) then the butt end will be the nock end but you'll have to reduce the shaft  coming up to the nock.

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