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Side nock question

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DC:
Does a side nock have an even wall thickness all around? I was looking at Alanesq's site and it looks like it's just a cone with the same wall thickness. Does this mean I can make the tip the same all around and then cut the nock in after it's been glued. I want to do as much as I can ahead of time because I'm making this bow at a 2 day gathering and it would cut down on the time.

meanewood:
I suppose an even thickness is best but don't make it to thin in an effort to make it look 'slim'.

The reason they went to the effort in the first place was to provide strength to the tips.

You can see by the one original, that an effort was made to trim the horn and shamfer the lip to reduce wear to the string when moving it up into place.

If your going to use the 'hanging' method, the more horn thickness you have at that point (20-25mm from the bottom), the better!

I use the self tightening loop method, which allows for a slim nock and minimal requirement to continue the slot into the wood.

The main thing is to not have the nock to low, this is where the horn is thinest!

Del the cat:
IMO. The best way to make any horn nock is, drill it, glue it on, then shape it. I started off tying to shape 'em off the bow and it's a nightmare.
Once it's glued onto a 6' + bow you have plenty to get hold of and a lots of leverage for fine control to allow you to even use the bandsaw and belt sander to take off some of the excess material (with care).
Personally I don't like side nocks, they are less strong and secure than a modern style nock which doesn't need to cut into the wood at all. (others will doubtless dissagree  ::))
Del

meanewood:
I know most people who use side nocks go for the bowyers knot on the lower limb and a large loop on the upper which basically hangs from the nock lip!

The bowyers knot is perfect on the lower limb but to use it on the upper is problematic in that it tightens up to the point that it is hard to loosen!

The hanging method just doesn't make sense to me but the running loop works great with all the stress being spread around the horn rather than on the lip.

You only need a shallow nock which acts as a locator rather than an anchor point.

If you keep the nock shallow, it makes it easier to loosen on the heavy bows.

DC:

--- Quote from: meanewood on September 10, 2018, 04:44:42 pm ---
If your going to use the 'hanging' method, the more horn thickness you have at that point (20-25mm from the bottom), the better!

I use the self tightening loop method, which allows for a slim nock and minimal requirement to continue the slot into the wood.


--- End quote ---

Do you have a picture of these two methods? I searched but couldn't find anything.
I'll probably end up with Victorian tips because my horn isn't long enough(snicker snicker) and the local pet shops are having a tough time finding more.

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