Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Bare shaft tuning
Sidewinder:
I read this once before but would like some re-clarification. Correct me where I am wrong.
Normal arrow spine will be between 5-10# below bow weight at draw length. So if I shoot a 57# bow I need to order shafts that are 45-50#.
When I shoot the bare shaft from 10-15ft , as a right handed shooter if it hits with the tail to the left the spine is too light?
1" off length of shaft stiffens the shaft approx. 5#
Most arrows are spined at 28" so if I have a 40#@28" shaft and cut it down to 26" it should now be a 50# shaft?
Where I am at now is I have a 40# shaft left over from another batch of POC that I am currently at 26" and it still appears to be hitting tail left and the tail is high.
Feedback and suggestions please....Danny
jamie:
most important thing to remember with bareshaft tuning is a clean loose. if you dont have a clean loose bareshafting is useless.
Sidewinder:
So what you are saying is no plucking?
JackCrafty:
Not all 57# bows are created equal. If you have a high performance 57# bow then you will need stiffer shafts.
Missing information:
What speed does the 57# bow shoot a 570 grain arrow?
Do you have a spine tester? Have you re-spined the arrow you cut down to 26"? Maybe it didn't gain 10# of spine after cutting.
Everything else in your data looks good.
scattershot:
The shaft won't gain any weight, or spine, by cutting it. The difference is in the dynamic spine, which is how it acts on the bow. Theoretically, you are correct, that by cutting the shaft shorter you are stiffening the dynamic spine, but it won't show up on the spine tester. It's the same stick, after all.
What's your point weight? Where does the arrow impact the target? Where is your nock point? If it's too low, the arrow could be "bumping" the shelf on its way by, screwing up all your careful testing.
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