Main Discussion Area > Arrows

Bare shaft tuning?

(1/2) > >>

Mafort:
I think that’s what it’s called. Is it exactly as it sounds? Is there any other way to make sure the arrows fly straight? Best advice for points and fletching style? Ahhh

Pat B:
Knowing the correct spine for the bow allows for good shooting arrows. Tip weight affects spine with 125grs being a standard with a 28" finished arrow. Arrow length and head weight both add or subtract effective spine weight of an arrow. Fletching style is generally a personal preference but hunting arrows usually have bigger fletching than target fletching to help stabilize the hunting arrow in flight. Two, 3 or four fletch are the most common with 3 fletch probably more than the others. A simple Eastern Woodland style 2 fletch is very effective and fits in will with primitive archery.

Mafort:
So 70-75 lb spine arrows with a 75lb bow at 28” is good when the point weight is 125 grains.  However the point weight I want to use is 165grains. What do my shafts need to be spined at for the heavy points?

Pat B:
Generally with a selfbow you can start out with arrow spine of about 10# below draw weight.  For the point weight you decrease the effective spine by 5# for each 5gr over 125gr so about 12# or so for the 165gr points. A 28" arrow spined at 70#-75#with the 165gr head should shoot like an arrow spined at 60#-65# more or less. Increasing the arrow length will affect the arrow by decreasing the effective spine by 5# per inch.

Knoll:
The parameters Pat describes are general guidelines that may or may not apply to your specific bow.
One way of determining or zeroing in on what works well for your specific bow is bareshaft testing. And, yes, the arrows are shot without fletching. If arrow shoots straight with no fletching then it's gonna do same with.
YouTube would be a friend to familiarize with bareshaft testing.
Good luck with your arrow tuning adventure!

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page