Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Second growth yew question. (UPDATE #3 WITH VIDEO)
peacefullymadewarbows:
Hey all. Got some time together got this little guy horned and scraped to the exact dimensions of the original bow. The cross section is kind of between the gallion and squashed rectangle cross section that seemed to be most common. So, the bow essentially has a slightly trapped back.
Below is linked a video of it going to 25" on the tiller. I pulled it to 26" afterwards where it hit 90lbs. It was bolt straight from the get go and now has just shy of 1" string follow. I only needed to scrap the inner/mid limb of the right limb to get balance and this is what it looks like now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0Qz4l4cJ9s
You'll notice that I have duct tape on one limb. That is actually duct tape with a piece of paper under it so it doesn't stick to the bow and leave residue. It is basically a catcher bandage if that spot decides to pop. It is not on there tight but simply a loose band to catch whatever wood might pop off. To my surprise the second growth spot has not budged. I haven't heard a peep and upon inspection there is no gaps observed. Granted I did soak it in CA glue before scraping off rasp marks. So i wonder if that is doing the job or if there is more sound wood than I thought.
Overall I am happy with the progress but also worried. I still have at least 3 inches but preferably 5 inches to go on the tiller. You'll notice the tiller is a bit elliptical. This makes me think the original bow probably was designed for a draw length of between 28-30". You'd think if such a short bow was meant for 31-32" it would bend more in the section of a circle, more in the handle. Maybe I underestimate yew :P. I still have inches for the belly to pop and/or just have the bow blow overall because of its short length. I did burnish the back in hopes of adding some distance.
Just wanted to update everyone. Thank you for watching!
DC:
It looks great and so does your shop. Be careful removing wood now. When I got my warbow to that point it seemed that rubbing my hand down it would cost me a pound or two.
meanewood:
Glad to hear things are going well.
That's quite a wide block on your tiller and I can see it's curved but is it curved enough to not interfere with the bend?
When you draw the bow, only a 5-6cm area of your hand is resisting the pull!
If That block swivels, I'd turn it around for less surface area.
peacefullymadewarbows:
DC: Thank you. Yeah I'm only going to remove wood for tiller faults. So hopefully none more but we'll see. I'm wanting to see what the bow on Mary Rose would've potentially hit in terms of draw weight. Yeah 1mm too much and you can totally miss your goal draw weight. I know the feeling. I bet this thing will lose 5lbs alone in set if it makes it as far as I want.
meanewood: It is a wide block but so far the wings have not come close to interfering with bend on any of my bows. I suppose a small plains bow it could be a problem. It's so big because a slightly smaller one I had before split right off and contributed to a broken bow. So, I made it chunkier and turned the grain parallel. It could probably stand to lose a little size though I agree.
peacefullymadewarbows:
Video: https://youtu.be/D_LvEcqdu-A
Here it is drawn to 28"
Picture also of it at 28": https://imgur.com/I1yY0TZ
Shortly after I pulled it to 29". It's still in one piece! So for the sake of science at 29" it weighed 99lbs. I've only shaved off a tenth of a mm here and there to round out the tiller. So, with the one inch shorter original bow at 29" it would maybe reach 103-105lbs. It is an interesting finding to think even the smallest bow on the ship was round abouts 100lbs probably. Any tiller critiques are welcome. I think I will shoot it at 29" for a bit and then see about those last 2 inches. Do you guys think it has a chance at 31"?
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version