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Self-nock process
DBernier:
Like Justin I use my table saw. Can't remember where I saw this jug but thought????????????? ??? Why not.
Dick
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Justin Snyder:
Yes sir Dick, just like that. I use it to cut groves for nocks and reinforcing spines. I never got around to putting the clamp on, I just hold the shaft in the groove. I figure since the jig is 6" tall and the blade only comes up 1 1/2" when I am cutting a grove for a reinforcing spine and 5/8" when I cut nocks, I am safe to hold the top 3". Justin
Pat B:
Was that one that Nick(Ionian) came up with. He made a few different gigs for making and splining self nocks and a tapering gig. Pat
scattershot:
As above, but I use the tile blade as an intermediate cut and finish with a chainsaw file. The last few strokes with the file are done at an angle to round the corners of the slot. Then sandpaper to remove the rough spots inside the slot. I don't even measure the depth of the initial cut. I just saw until the back of the hacksaw blade is even with the shaft
Sparrow:
First off I saw in 3/4 of an inch with a hacksaw blade,widen and square it with a flat needle file (Harbor freight has a set cheap) and glue in a strip of hardwood as a insert.trim and smooth that all up,cut another notch 1/2 inch deep crossways of my insert and use a round needle file to make it a nice width and dead down the center.I start fitting my bowstring into the eqaution now and round out the inside end of the knock so that the nock just grips the string(Like a modern plastic nock does) so my arrow does'nt fall out of the string while I am fumbling around getting set up for a shot.When I fletch the shaft,I wind the sinew from the back of the fletch up to the bottom of the notch. I do this on all my hunting arrows.It sounds like I am over-building my knocks(and I probably am) but I have never had a self-knock split yet that I've built this way. Frank
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