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PatM:

--- Quote from: sleek on March 20, 2019, 05:59:02 pm ---
--- Quote from: PatM on March 20, 2019, 05:42:12 pm --- I like to add up the total working limb and use that to calculate the max draw length.

--- End quote ---

How do you calculate based off that?

--- End quote ---

I add up the total of the two limbs that actually are bending to any degree and figure that the max draw should approach that, if not equal it.

DC:

--- Quote from: sleek on March 20, 2019, 06:03:03 pm ---
--- Quote from: DC on March 20, 2019, 06:01:12 pm ---
--- Quote from: sleek on March 20, 2019, 05:56:30 pm --- Please keep a log and post it of your draw weight and length as you go. Also, pics please.

--- End quote ---
I'm not sure what the log will show. It will just be 40@10, 40@11 etc. What else do you want? Yup on the pictures.

--- End quote ---

Are you familiar with Badgers method of no set tillering?

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Yup

DC:

--- Quote from: sleek on March 20, 2019, 06:02:06 pm ---
--- Quote from: DC on March 20, 2019, 05:58:24 pm ---Oh, I have used maple backed yew a few times. I prefer boo backed but that may be mostly aesthetics. I think the effectiveness of a Maple backing depends on the Maple much more than a Boo backing. Put that another way, you can tell if the boo is good by looking at it(most times) where as maple may have more runout in one piece than the next and it won't show that much.

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Ok, so it sounds like maple is a decent match for yew, and you are familiar with it. Awesome.

Sorry if i am butting too much into your build here. I love this design, and its killing me im not actually there helping build it. I hope my excitement of this isnt overbearing.

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I had to go back and reread the last couple of pages. Things were coming in too quick.

sleek:

--- Quote from: DC on March 20, 2019, 06:07:39 pm ---
--- Quote from: sleek on March 20, 2019, 06:03:03 pm ---
--- Quote from: DC on March 20, 2019, 06:01:12 pm ---
--- Quote from: sleek on March 20, 2019, 05:56:30 pm --- Please keep a log and post it of your draw weight and length as you go. Also, pics please.

--- End quote ---
I'm not sure what the log will show. It will just be 40@10, 40@11 etc. What else do you want? Yup on the pictures.

--- End quote ---

Are you familiar with Badgers method of no set tillering?

--- End quote ---
Yup

--- End quote ---

Its up to you as it really takes forever, im just looking for a record to compare my builds to, to see how the design holds up on my shorter bows compared to longer ones.

What im asking is this:

Pull the bow to 11 inches. Record weight. Then pull to 12, record weight. Then pull back to 11 AGAIN, re-record its weight, then go to 13. Its a forward 2 back one type of thing, all the way to 40 pounds. Then scrape and start over again at 11 inches.

What this does is shows how the bows energy storage capabilities change as draw length is increased, and exactly where set starts to take place on the draw. If you were 28 pounds at 11, and 31#@12, then pull back to 11 inches again, and you are NOT at 28 but say 26 now, then set happened right there.

All these FD curves you plot as the bow advances through the tiller process shows alot. It can help design better ones. Like, you see early draw weight drop, and that stored energy doesnt pick up again until later in the draw, you know that perhaps mkre reflex or longer recurves may help. You can see when the recurves start to open up and the stresses it places on the wood, and many other things. Also, I want to compare this data to my bows as I make them. Id like a comparrison between longer version and my shorter ones, especially of different woods.

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