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sleek:
--- Quote from: DC on March 15, 2019, 08:21:52 pm ---
--- Quote from: Badger on March 15, 2019, 07:44:32 pm --- The comments I made about short working areas on the limb can be easily confused. When I can get away with short working areas I dod but in most cases I need most of the limb working to avoid set. I usually leave the last 8 or 10" pretty stiff and I like longer fades like 3" or even a bit more only if I can get away with it and not take too much set. Avoiding set is my #1 priority.
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I agree with you on set being number one. Wouldn't a wider thinner limb be under less stress and take less set?
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Yes, but there are diminishing returns in form of mass, and limb deformation on release. Limbs get rubbery as they get thin.
PatM:
--- Quote from: Woodely on March 15, 2019, 07:20:51 pm ---
--- Quote from: PatM on March 15, 2019, 01:59:20 pm ---
--- Quote from: Woodely on March 15, 2019, 01:25:54 pm ---I have only ever built one wide bow. I think it was 1 5/8" wide at the fades. The wood was perfect, I was barely 10 minutes into tillering and exercising it when it blew up on the tiller stick. Won't build another wide limb bow again, all my laminate bows end up at around 1 7/16" to 1 3/8" wide.
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Surely you don't think that was the cause.
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I do as a matter of fact, it was to thin and not enough overlapping grain . I think that wide and thin can have a negligible effect on the woods stress limits.
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You mean the wood was NOT perfect then. Also negligible means it has virtually no effect. You must mean negative.
bradsmith2010:
sleek,,,couldn't u just make the limb shorter,,to compensate for mass,,
DC:
--- Quote from: simk on March 15, 2019, 01:46:55 pm ---DC, for comparison, I do my moelles with 13:17 bend/lever ratio. The bending limb is 1 7/8" wide at the fade, is 38 cm long and has maybe 12-15 mm in thickness.
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Where did you come up with 13:17 ;D ;D Is it some kind of Fibonacci sequence?
Woodely:
--- Quote from: Badger on March 15, 2019, 07:44:32 pm --- The comments I made about short working areas on the limb can be easily confused. When I can get away with short working areas I dod but in most cases I need most of the limb working to avoid set. I usually leave the last 8 or 10" pretty stiff and I like longer fades like 3" or even a bit more only if I can get away with it and not take too much set. Avoiding set is my #1 priority.
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I agree with Badger on that one.
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"You mean the wood was NOT perfect then. Also negligible means it has virtually no effect. You must mean negative."
Must of got up from the wrong side of the bed that day. I would have to take that statement back and wipe it out as it does make sense as you pointed out. At any rate it was long ago when I built such a bow, all I remember is I dont like the looks feel or tillering such a beast and will stick with bows in the 1 7/16" width or there abouts. I like to have more meat in the thickness department to work with. :) When I'm tillering tapering and trapping are the last things I do to get the tiller I'am trying to achieve.
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