Main Discussion Area > Bows
New project
PatM:
This was why I recommended adding the sinew. ;)
sleek:
--- Quote from: bradsmith2010 on March 22, 2019, 04:17:24 pm ---Sleek, is there a simple way to explain to me about the storage,, Im not good at math,, )P(
--- End quote ---
Add all the weights up at each inch, divide by 12. That number is stored energy in foot pounds. You want it as close to your final draw weight as possible, or more than.
sleek:
--- Quote from: DC on March 22, 2019, 04:19:34 pm ---
--- Quote from: sleek on March 22, 2019, 03:19:37 pm ---Id wrap it tight with sewing thread, the length of the splinter, then soak that in liquid ca glue. That usually does the trick.
--- End quote ---
I wrapped it. I still wanted to chrono it and see how it shoots. It shot a 400 gr arrow 161fps @ 26" draw. Not a speed demon. I'll start picking away at the levers to see how much weight I can get rid of. I'm suspecting a possible bad backing. Well not necessarily bad, just the weak point. I'm always suspicious of my Maple backing. There was some concern that the grain was a little off.
I just read your post Sleek. Hopefully the tips a really heavy
--- End quote ---
400 grains at 26 is hobbling the bow. First because the bow doesnt pull 40@26, rather 38.5, so you are asking it to shoot an arrow over 10gpp. Second, you are under drawing the powerstroke by 2 inches. That bow should be much faster than you are pushing it. Easily 170s. As for the mass, man, i hope you have lots you can remove. I dont know otherwise why ut wouldnt be faster.
sleek:
Badger, any ideas?
PatM:
Mass reduction of the extremities and a lighter arrow. This would be considered a good dry fire design.
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