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English medieval arrows

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WillS:
One of my recent commissions was for the Buckingham Gaol Museum here in the UK, as they're doing a summer exhibition on the 100 Years War and wanted a selection of arrows for the display.

These are as close as I can get to historically correct arrows from that period.

The shafts are black poplar (Populus nigra) and tapered to meet the exact measurements of Mary Rose arrow MR82A1892/9.  This is a two stage taper which seems to be the true "bobtail."  Most people think a medieval arrow is a straight taper from head to nock, but I've found that's not the case with any of the extant arrows I've examined.  They also have a nock diameter of just over 8mm, which again is what most arrows I've seen tend to have (if not smaller), instead of the 10mm or 3/8" nock diameter that's become the accepted standard.

The nocks are split with a blade and fitted with blonde cow horn that's peeled like an onion from the main horn, instead of the bulky 2 or 3mm strips sold in archery shops.  The horn is glued in place with hide glue.

Fletchings are white swan, bound with red silk into a compound of beeswax, kidney fat and copper verdigris.

The heads are all hand forged by myself, from wrought iron which is about as close as we can get to medieval bloomery steel without sending the budget through the roof!  They are a long Type 7 with diamond section, a short Type 8 with square section, a heavy Type 9 with diamond section and a barbed Type 16 which has steel barbs forge-welded to the iron body.

Mikkolaht:
Some beauties there!

Great job, outstanding forging skills too.
I could only dream to have my twentyseven slotted arrowbag full of these :D

So you just split the nock and slided in the cow strip with some glue without boiling the end to make it softer?

How did you process the cow horn strips to the right shape?

stuckinthemud:
Hi Will, could you elaborate on the taper, the term 'bobtail' is new to me in this context. Thanks, Andrew

WillS:
Mikko - yep, just split with a good sharp blade, and the horn slotted in.  Not much glue is needed, as the pressure of the split is enough to hold it in place.  The cow horn is simply peeled off the rest of the horn.  It grows with very thin layers, just like an onion so you simply push a knife blade into the horn, open up a split and let it strip itself for you really.  You end up with paper thin sheets that naturally taper towards the tip of the horn which is ideal. 

Andrew - Bobtail is the "normal" term for a tapered arrow shaft, and has generally meant a straight taper, but I'm not sure why as I'm yet to find an existing arrow from the period that has a straight taper!  The actual profile is almost full diameter save for a very subtle taper from the head back a few inches, to keep the mass as high as possible at the business end, and then a more deliberate taper from that point down to the nock.  By the way - this year's camp is at the beginning of August, if you fancy it again!

Hawkdancer:
Will,
The horn insert appears to be several inches (75 mm+) long, correct?  Also, what ratios of beeswax, fat, and copper verdigris did you use.  That might be hard to find here in the states.  The head diameter is about 10mm?  Very nice arrows!  Btw, be sure to post pics of your August camp. 
Hawkdancer

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