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Woodely:
Thanks for the info.  So what would you recommend to take down these shafts to about 5-7# less.  They are currently about 48# spine.  30" from base of tip to nock groove AMO measurement.  I'm thinking of doing a back taper and I always use 125gr. tips but I could go to 145gr.

DC:
Good post Wayne.

Pat B:
Lightly sanding the center 1/3 of the arrow would lighten the spine. Rear tapering would not decrease the spine but will make the arrow more tolerant of draw weight.  When I was learning about making cane and hardwood shoot arrows Art Butner taught me that with the natural taper of these shoots and canes you can subtract as much as 10# from the actual spine value. The commercial Tonkin cane arrows don't have much taper so it probably isn't the same with them.

TSA:
i concur with Pat- the middle third controls the spine. we do find that when putting back tapers on shafts- up to about 8" doesnt effect the spine at all, every extra inch seems to drop the spine by about 1#- and thats just a ball park- i cant say at what point it starts to compound- as its been years since i did a full length tapered shaft- i did some in the early days- maybe i should try that again and record the info

TSA:
Woodely, as Pat said you can lightly sand down the center third- and that will reduce the static spine of the shafts- so thats the spine thats measure on a spine tester.
 The dynamic spine is how the shaft performs, and this is an area where one can fudge things a lot!
heres an example> a #50 static spine- as they come measured from the manufacturer is assuming a 28" draw and 125gr points_ but go up to 150 gr points now your 50# spine shaft is actually behaving like a #45 spine shaft.
there are a lot of things a person can do to effect the dynamic spine.
1.play with point weight and length of shaft
2.reduce or add weight to the rear will do quite a bit, but it works in converse to point weight. IE: adding weight to the back will stiffen the dynamic spine.
now adding weight to the back may not be the best scenario, but reducing weight will weaken the dynamic spine, a back atper will help with that a lot- so will reducing fletch size etc- as you saw in my post above.
sometimes just putting on a cap wrap will stiffen a shaft quite a bit!- the vinyl wraps weigh about 2gr per inch.
3. you can also play with the bow strike plate- building the strike plate out will make the bow want a weaker spine shaft- so if your shafts are a bit stiff, getting your arrow to pass closer to center- by maybe putting a thinner strike plate on- will make the bow want stiffer shafts- and it doesnt take much- sometimes just adding a layer or two of double sided carpet tape can drop the spine by #5. Or going from a thicker leather strike plate to a thinner strike plate can push the spine requirement up by #5
4.you can mess with the brace height, but i dont like to do this- you can take a nice shooter and make them darn ornery- i get my brace height where i want it and leave it- then start to play around with the other variables.

or you can just build some new shafts, but thats not as much fun, and one doesnt really learn as much!!
cheers- good luck

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