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My horn bow build-a-long

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DC:
More

Russ:
YES!! were back!

bownarra:
I like the compass method :)
You could increase the width of the sal as well but it isn't really necessary as the extra stability is needed around the kasan eye. As it is the place with a bunch of reflex it is the 'problem area'. Remember the 100# plus bows aren't wider than around 30 - 33mm in the sal. Increasing width and decreasing thickness in the sal will also affect the return speed of the limbs. I presume you are making a lower weight bow? I just finished tillering a bow that is around 40#@28 and it is thin! The thinner these bows become in the sal the more finicky they can be.

DC:
So instead off tapering as much in the sal I should keep the width further into the eye a bit and then have more taper in the kasan. I'll do that for now. I can always taper more. Yeah, I'm planning on about 45#@28. That's about all I can pull.

bownarra:
Yes but keep the extra width for the full length of the kasan go back to standard width at the 'step' into the tip. I would aim for about 24 mm width at the end of the kasan and then reduce width to 11mm, thickness 17mm at the tip.
You can then reduce width of the kasan once the bow is tillered and stable.
One thing that is easy to get wrong is leaving the core too thick at the kasan eye. You want it to open almost fully here at full draw but if you leave the wood even a shade too thick it won't open much during the draw, this will increase set in the sals a lot and more importantly make stability more problematic than it needs to be.

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