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My horn bow build-a-long
bownarra:
Don't bother trying to alter the shape now. Heat/tillering will take care of it later. It may actually be counter productive trying to force it into a different shape.
This is why it is worth bending the bow backwards before sinewing but don't stress it isn't bad. I've had worse and corrected it later.
Just because the sinew looks dry only means the surface is dry :) The bonds take time to form.
You should separate the sinew bundles further and weigh each bundle to 0.1g accuracy. My bundle weights vary between 0.5g and 2g. Slightly more sinew on one side of the limb will cause twist that is very difficult to cure later.
DC:
It's pretty much settled into it's shape now. It doesn't move when I take it off the form so that's done whether it's good or bad. I will reverse tiller the next one. I was a little hesitant this time but now i have a better idea of what to look for. I realise the sinew isn't dry, I was just surprised how fast it went from gelled to "hard to press with a fingernail" stage. I weighed it right after sinewing and it was 372 grams. This morning it's 312.
--- Quote from: bownarra on October 11, 2019, 01:26:00 am ---You should separate the sinew bundles further and weigh each bundle to 0.1g accuracy. My bundle weights vary between 0.5g and 2g. Slightly more sinew on one side of the limb will cause twist that is very difficult to cure later.
--- End quote ---
I did weigh my bundles to .1g so I'm OK there. I wish I'd known about bundle weight being .5 to 2 gram. That would have been a big help. I think my bundles were 6.5.
bownarra:
Yes I like to use small bundles to begin with and get the finished shape with them and then use the full width bundles for the last layers.
The bigger bundles are much easier to handle when you use the Korean method like Gorazd mentioned.
DC:
Second layer of sinew today. Sorry no pictures. Pretty much the same as the first layer except I don't feel as good about this one. Not sure why. A gut thing. See how it looks in a day or so.
DC:
I'm new to sinewing so I'm not sure what to expect. I'm surprised how crummy the sinew can look when you apply it and the next day it can look quite nice. That's the case with this layer. I'm quite happy with it this morning. The light spots on the pictures are still wet so it should get better still. The fourth picture is an older one to show how much reflex it's gained. It weighed 440grams right after sinewing and it's 404 this morning. I measured the thickness of the first layer before I put on this one and it was in the 2-3mm range so this one may be the last one. I would like to put on a thin smoothing layer after I sand/ rasp this one a bit. Brings up a question, how much sinew can you remove? I can imagine that rasping the layers cuts the sinew a shortens the fibers. Is this a problem? How much can I shape the sinew? I'm thinking I should level/even out the sinew before I start tillering so the thickness taper is OK. Kind of using the rasp to fix up my less than perfect sinewing.
PS Found the answer in Adams book. After 3 months I can shape the sinew.
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