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My horn bow build-a-long

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DC:
There's just one spot in the eye that's iffy and I really think it will be OK. It's almost 4mm thick there and I'm kinda going for 3mm. I just don't know how much more it's going to shrink.

bownarra:
It won't 'shrink' much more. Just the bonds getting stronger with time now.

DC:
OK it's officially curing now. Nothing for at least a few months so all there will be on here is some random questions about hornbows. For example.

When I do get to close to tillering do I reduce the sinew to get the thickness taper even on both limbs first? I ask this because in the book Adam only mentions reducing the horn when tillering. Is there a reason for not reducing the sinew as part of the tillering?

I can make the tepeliks now. It says to make them with the about same radius as the strung bow. How do I guess at this radius?

bownarra:
You can sand the sinew lightly to flatten it but anything more is not advisable. You want long untouched sinew fibers on that outer layer covering the whole sal and kasan eye area. Fill in any voids rather than sanding down to remove them.
Reduce the horn to get a perfect taper before bending.
Good question with the teplics :) To be honest I don't use them anymore. I prefer to open the bow with the notched stick(name?) initially. to check for twist balance, bend etc. Then once it looks good I use a pegboard to get to brace. For the heavier bows that are too strong for the pegboard I made a bow press with a boat winch to do the pulling haha. Stringing your first hornbows for the first time is quite a heartrate raiser....
The pegboard is made from glued up ply at 2 inch thick. The posts are high density plastic rod 1 inch diameter, with soft leather wrapped around. A 4 inch section of ply to act as a saddle for the handle. Multiple holes drilled so the bow can be bent progressively.

DC:

--- Quote from: bownarra on October 29, 2019, 02:18:04 pm ---You can sand the sinew lightly to flatten it but anything more is not advisable. You want long untouched sinew fibers on that outer layer covering the whole sal and kasan eye area. Fill in any voids rather than sanding down to remove them.
Reduce the horn to get a perfect taper before bending.


--- End quote ---

OK, might be a problem here. I know the sinew is thicker on one limb than the other. I'm not sure by how much, can't remember right now. Should I reduce the sinew to an even thickness(a little thinner than finished) and apply a final continuous layer? Probably use the Korean method.

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