Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
My horn bow build-a-long
DC:
So far so good. How does this look? How do I stop the bow from walking back and forth as I move each limb to the next peg? As I bend the limb the handle slides across the saddle. You can see where I clamped the block to stop that but it really didn't help. I also put a top on the saddle because I don't want this think loose in my shop. I have to put a 1" pipe on the limb to bend it. I really can't see me pulling this thing.
Also with this much tension I can't see any way this is going to twist. How can I tell if it wants to?
Should I be letting it sit like this for some length of time before bending it more?
Why do I feel like there is a bomb in my shop ready to go off? ;D
DC:
I shaped the saddle lid to match the top of the handle and that stopped the sideways movement.
I cleaned up the horn a bit and found a lengthwise crack. I can feel it with my fingernail. Is that it, am I finished? Or CA and continue? I'll check Adams trouble shooting section.
PS Adam says to use CA so I did that. I'll wait for your comments before I continue.
bownarra:
Yes it does tend to feel like there is a bomb about to go off when tillering these bows haha!
You cannot judge the weight until you have a string on (or a lot of experience!). The extreme string tension is one of the reasons for better performance. High initial energy storage. This is what you can not do with wood. A fair amount will pull out once it is strung for a day or so and then you will be left with the true amount of 'tillered' reflex.
The crack isn't ideal because it appears to be angling through the limb not running back to belly. If it was a crack induced during drying they tend to be the later and not a problem. I personally don't like the look of your crack but all you can do is proceed with tillering and cross your fingers.....
Tiller-wise the left limb looks ok but the right has a weak spot out of the handle. Do not pull it further until you fix that. Limb strength relative to each other is something you will have to judge by feel until you have it strung. A 2nd cut file and 60 grit on a block is the way to go to sort the tiller.
bownarra:
The left kasan eye also appears a little stiff. Check thicknesses relative to each other with calipers, if there is no difference in thickness heat the left eye and open further.
You may have no twist - if not do a little dance and congratulate yourself. It will certainly be apparent when strung if there is any.
Yes you can leave it on the pegboard for an hour or so before removing any material/moving onto the next step.
DC:
Black arrow too weak? Red arrow too stiff? Is that where you mean. I'm having a tough time seeing them.
Do I tiller this like a wood bow as far as dealing with the weak spot. ie weaken the rest of the limb and then make the other limb match? Or do I just weaken the same spot on the other limb?
I'm not liking the way the crack is running off to one side although it does look like it's straightening out some. I think I heard it crack. I'll carry on :)
PS I had taken it off the pegboard and like a fool I hadn't marked left or right. The holes in the tips are not symmetrical so I might sort it out that way. I'll mark them now. >:(
PPS It's -6C here and the RH in the shop is 35% before heating it up so I may take some time off until it's a little more humid.
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