Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
My horn bow build-a-long
DC:
--- Quote ---After about 3 months, while the bow still dries, it can be worked further to shape the sinew. It is done first with a file to flatten the back, or, if a flight bow to give it a slightly rounded shape. The edges are also made round, but still overlapping the belly (see the chapter on cross-sections). Sinew is also shaped on the kasan section and the excess is removed from the tips. Then the bow is sanded again to eliminate the file marks and checked with a caliper to make sure the thickness of sinew was sufficient.
Karpowicz, Adam. Ottoman Turkish bows, manufacture and design: second edition . Adam Karpowicz. Kindle Edition.
--- End quote ---
If I can do all this to make the sinew smooth why can't I scrape a bit for tillering?
JNystrom:
Basically you want to keep the sinew fibers intact. What ever you choose to do, just keep this in mind. Small scraping such as just making the back even and flat is minor. I wouldn't personally go tillering from the sinew back.
If the bow ends up too heavy you can always equilibriate it in 60% rh or so and then heat off the reflex. I think you tried this but the moisture content of the bow makes a big difference.
I think Adam has in his book bows half drawn. Basically the kasan doesn't bend at all.
DC:
Filed down the fade quite a bit and took a layer off out to the kasan. Then I put a new thinner layer of sinew where I had filed. Now wait a few weeks,,,, again :)
bownarra:
sorry I haven@t checked in for a while!
yOU MUST NOT LET THE BOW 'FLIP FLOP' oops caps lock on haha
As I said it will be 'alive' when you first string it. You should have everything to hand eg. the inner tube pieces. A piece of cord works too.
It is doing this because it is a light bow. Simple as that. Heavy bows are much,much easier to tiller. To reduce the tendancy to do this you should let it sit on the pegboard for a few days (only once it looks nigh on perfect). The light weight bows need a lot of time to settle to the string. A light weight bow I tillered for someone else took a week being strung before it settled down. Its bending sections were far too long. Don't make any judgements about limb strength relative to one another until you are 100% certain. If you make even small mistakes with material removal you will be chasing your tail.
DO NOT tiller from the sinew back - a light flattening is ALL you should do to the back. The same rules apply as on a wooden bow. These bows are also way more strained. I seriously would not want a hornbows back to fail when I had it drawn......
DC:
--- Quote from: bownarra on March 07, 2020, 12:55:13 am ---
It is doing this because it is a light bow.
--- End quote ---
Do you think you could explain that somehow, it makes no sense to me. To me that's like saying a rat trap will work and a mouse trap won't. Exactly the same design but the rat trap has more tension.
So to me. Not "as simple as that" :D
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version