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My horn bow build-a-long

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sleek:

--- Quote from: DC on March 07, 2020, 03:02:46 pm ---
--- Quote from: bownarra on March 07, 2020, 12:55:13 am ---
It is doing this because it is a light bow.

--- End quote ---

Do you think you could explain that somehow, it makes no sense to me. To me that's like saying a rat trap will work and a mouse trap won't. Exactly the same design but the rat trap has more tension.

So to me. Not "as simple as that" :D

--- End quote ---

Perhaps it's because a heavier bow will stress the materials to their max faster, And stretch the back more and faster so you have less time of it getting broke in. Like a string, when you stretch it, the string stretches to it max faster on a heavy bow, than it would on a lighter bow, so as time goes on, you need to add a few twists to the string as it gets broken in over time, vs a heavy bow that stretched the string on the first couple draws.


Just a wordy guess on my part. I'm certain a knowledgeable reply would mean more, but I can see how that could work.

bownarra:
I said 'simple as that' because that is the only reason why it is 'flip floping'. None of the other stuff.
Nothing like your mouse/rat trap analogy ;)
Thinner limbs obviously have less material in them, most importantly less wood. Wood being by far the stiffest material in a composite. The wood gives the bow its shape and is generally the cause when a bow doesn't bend right or resists bending correctly.
Horn bows made with no core are very prone to this problem.
Light weight hornbows have to have thin component pieces however I like to go as thin as possible with the horn,2mm max with the sinew and leave the wooden core as thick as possible.
Trust me a 100# bow is a whole different animal than a 40#'er performancewise and ease of tillering.
Think about making a wooden kids bow. using 'normal' adult lengths/widths etc - say 66", 1 3/4" wide but instead of 50# only 20#    how would that bow react to 'normal' belly tillering (compared to a normal adults bow). Sensitive eh? The wooden bow and the hornbows have little to be able to directly compare but this shows that IF you don't scale everything it WILL NOT act the same. Your hornbow isn't a scaled version of an original and couldn't be so you have to deal with these 'issues' which arise because of the differences.
 

DC:
And so ends my hornbow thread. Can't say I'm sorry. I was getting pretty tired of waiting for this to happen. 9 months is a long buildup. So I think the problem was too much reflex in the sal. I looked at a lot of pictures before I made the caul and I was convinced that this is the way it should go. By the time bownarra pointed out the fault it was pretty much too late to do anything but forge ahead and hope. It broke before I got it to brace height. I had it bent a lot further before I resinewed it. This is the limb that the horn cracked on but whether that had anything to do with it, I don't know. I would not recommend making a hornbow unless you have a mentor. Even with Adam's book most of the time I felt I was groping in the dark. Thanks a lot to everyone that helped especially bownarra an JNystrom. I don't think I'll try again :D

Russ:
 NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO  :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

sleek:
If I have the ability,  I'd supply you the material if I could somehow bribe you into making another. You have a certain level of mastery about everything I have seen you build. I'd love to see you do a follow up to this thread with lessons learned.

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