Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
My horn bow build-a-long
DC:
I've read that and I may not do it on the next one(if there is a next one). I thought that it might be a little insurance on the first one and it's part of the whole experience I guess.
DC:
I tried grooving a piece of wood similar size to the horn. I couldn't get the alignment tooth to keep in the groove. It kept following the grain. I finally gave up and made a trough. That seems to work better. The scraper I made from a cabinet scraper was too thin. At least that's what I think was causing a horrendous squeal that would feed back through my hearing aids and get worse. If I took the aids off I couldn't hear anything and I'm not sure which was worse. I'm just about done making one from a saw blade. It's a little coarser at 11 TPI.
bownarra:
Practise :)
It is easy enough once you get the hang of it. More tpi is better. Less tpi means you've got to groove deeper. If it was following the grain make the initial straight groove deeper. Use a scapel or very thin blade.
JNystrom:
--- Quote from: bownarra on July 19, 2019, 11:16:11 pm ---Remember the old bows weren't made with matching grooves. It is a nice thing to do but unnecessary. The more bows I've made the more I think it is a waste of time making matching grooves. My heaviest, most stressed flight bows have non matching grooves. One of them has survived two broken strings in the name of testing with no problems. With non matching grooves you don't have to bother making the teeth even in fact it is best if they aren't even.
--- End quote ---
How heavy are your bows? Not many people make these with non matching grooves, so i'm really interested. Some people leave non matching groove bows lighter, cause they still fear the glueline. I feel there is some vital info still missing from the old way to gluing up core and horn.
My last couple of bows, i've used toothing plane blade. It's really a pleasure to groove with, it's high quality tempered steel and easy to sharpen with. I think you can find a picture of it from my hornbow thread here.
JNystrom:
--- Quote from: bownarra on July 13, 2019, 10:32:00 pm ---Sinew shrinking doesn't give the bow much reflex at all. Most of the gained reflex comes from tying the string between the tips and increasing the reflex after each layer.
The sal should be straight to begin with.
Adam explains the reasoning behind not having reflex in the sal it is to do with separational forces between the layers.
--- End quote ---
You can have reflexed sal sections, as many many bows back in the day had. Separational forces are real, bigger with thicker limbs, but doable with good glue up work.
Crab bows, korean bows, tatars and turkish flight bows area all believed to have almost tip crossing reflex before sinewing.
Sinew reflex is nice, but what really makes the form is the wood core and horn. If sal sections are straight before sinew, eventually the bow will also be straight in these sections after tillering. All these bow types i earlier listed, had quite generous reflex when off the string. Well, my bows either haven't been reflexed this much, but in the future they hopefully will be.
That said, for a beginner or for a really heavy 150+ pound bow its good idea to have the bow less reflexed. It raises the possibility for a successfull bow greatly.
Good luck!
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