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My horn bow build-a-long

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DC:
 This bow will be 40-45# so I'm not expecting it to be a screamer. If it's any more than that it will be a wall hanger cause that's all I can pull. I'm doing this for the fun of it, just to see if I can.

 At 40+# I probably don't need grooves at all but what the hey.

 All my old saws had coarse teeth. 16TPI looked a little small to me but this 11TPI look too big. I'll look around.

bownarra:
The grooves stop the core from breaking. Look into how modern composite materials work - same principle.
Yes I know you can have reflexed sals, I've done it quite a few times. I have made a few different styles not just Turkish. With perfect gluing technique yes you can get away with it but take a closer look at those designs you mention - straight sals all feature :) A reflex out of the grip is not a reflexed sal :) As you say tip crossing reflex before tillering means little it is the shape of the core that matters. Only Turkish flight bows (out of those that you mention) had slightly reflexed sals before sinew.
I am just tillering two new heavy bows, one flight and one war. I haven't weighted them yet but I've had to make a press for these two, I can't bend them to brace by hand....they must be close to 150# as I've tillered a few 80/90/100# ers. The bow I mentioned before has shot over 600 yards (with less than perfect arrows) my goal is get close to the old record of 900 yards but these things take time!

DC:
I couldn't get the alignment tooth to work so I went with the trough kind of idea. I scraped one limb of the test bow and made a pseudo "horn" piece out of a piece of Ocean Spray. It has the same density as horn(1.2) so I thought it was a reasonable substitute. After steaming the "horn" they fit together nicely. Here's pictures of the resulting grooves and the scrapers and jigs. I used the bending form as one of the jigs. I just made one scraper blade and move it from handle to handle as needed.

JNystrom:

--- Quote from: bownarra on July 21, 2019, 11:22:39 pm ---Yes I know you can have reflexed sals, I've done it quite a few times. I have made a few different styles not just Turkish. With perfect gluing technique yes you can get away with it but take a closer look at those designs you mention - straight sals all feature :) A reflex out of the grip is not a reflexed sal :) As you say tip crossing reflex before tillering means little it is the shape of the core that matters. Only Turkish flight bows (out of those that you mention) had slightly reflexed sals before sinew.
I am just tillering two new heavy bows, one flight and one war. I haven't weighted them yet but I've had to make a press for these two, I can't bend them to brace by hand....they must be close to 150# as I've tillered a few 80/90/100# ers. The bow I mentioned before has shot over 600 yards (with less than perfect arrows) my goal is get close to the old record of 900 yards but these things take time!

--- End quote ---
Well we need to disagree then about the sal reflex. All those bows had a huge amount of reflex, something that many modern era replicas lack.

Over 600 yards of distance would be a world record. How did you measure the distance?
It sure is true hornbows take all the time in the world to master. And then the shooting...

bownarra:
Look again - no they don't have hugely reflexed sals. When the core was made and the horn glued, they are straight in the sals. As I said I've made a few bows of all the designs you mention.
I don't really care about modern 'records'. I measured it with a 100 yard tape. The heaviest bows I shoot with a machine. Upto 80# I shoot by hand and have managed just shy of 500 yards with that bow but as I say arrows haven't matched the bows perfectly.

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