Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
My horn bow build-a-long
bownarra:
Collagen glue is the only sensible way to go. Don't use epoxy you will be glad you didn't later.
The sals look short and the kasans too long. On your first it is best to go with a less stressed design as Adam mentions.
DC:
I thought the sal looked short but I couldn't find any measurements anywhere. I thought I was roughly following the two examples Adam gave(the 47" and 41" examples) but I guess not. This whole build is starting to pi$$ me off. maybe I'll just make shoehorns out of the horn.
DC:
Last couple of days have not gone well. I've been trying to cut matching grooves in the horn and core. Even if you make a form for the grooving tool to follow the teeth follow the grain of the wood and the grooves don't end up straight. It's easier to groove the horn as it's grainless but still, all that has to happen is for the tool to jump a groove once and then from then on that's where the tool goes. Seems rather strange that the tool would rather follow a crooked line than a straight one but that seems to be the rule. Same thing happens on the wood. Fortunately Adam says that with a light bow you don't need matching grooves so I will forge on with sorta matching grooves and sals that are too short.
Woodely:
Be interesting to see how you tiller such a beast and brace it. Hopefully it turns out well.
my last one piece bow broke.. :( so I decided to make 2 sets of limbs for a takedown, that way I know at least one pair of limbs wont break. That bow had perfect cast, smoothness and draw. After 9 years of doing this it was the best.
DC:
I had a little talk with myself. I'm better now I think. I watched some of JWB's videos on grooving and he does it exactly as I was so I gave it some thought. All I could come up with was my scraper may not be sharp enough. I resharpened it as best as I could paying particular attention to face where the burrs are from filing. I ran it over a stone to get it nice and smooth. That seemed to help quite a bit. It's now sharp enough to cut new grooves rather than just follow what's there. I managed to straighten out some wiggles on the horn.
I decided that the sal/kasan bend could be a little less abrupt so I heated it while stretching out the bow. It looks a little better now. After it cools I'll try the sharpened groove cutter on the wood. If worse comes to worse I have enough to sand the old grooves off and cut new ones.
I also made up this little tool. I just bent the tang on the same size file I used to cut the teeth in the grooving tool. The file lays in the partly cut grooves and I can straighten out slight wiggles.
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