Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Split oak for medieval english arrows
Strelets:
Bootthrower, if you want to be really authentic then you will need European oak (Quercus robur) not American white or red oak (Quercus alba and Quercus rubra). Q. robur and Q. alba have similar physical properties, but Q. robur is more golden in colour.
Bootthrower:
Oh it is the european stuff! I live in Sweden (should have said so in the original post)
WillS:
Oak was just about the only wood NOT used for the Mary Rose arrows. The most common was black poplar (Populus nigra) followed by birch. Ash was extremely scarce too, only a handful of shafts amongst the 3000 ish being identified as ash. Ascham mentioned it being superior, but that was for a specific purpose.
Oak is crazy heavy, but if you make "correct" arrows it works ok. When I say correct I mean with a true bobtail taper, not the modern equivalent which is a straight taper from head to nock. The original ones have a very short heavily tapered section behind the head which is full diameter (1/2") down to around 11mm or 10mm, and then a gradual taper to a nock of around 7.5mm to 8.5mm.
This is quite different to the massive "medieval war arrow" that people like showing off these days, which fly like a small house unless you're shooting something around 170lb, if you use historically correct timber.
As an aside, I keep being reminded just how out of date my article on the verdigris compound is - I must rewrite it with current research results!
Hawkdancer:
--- Quote from: WillS on August 06, 2019, 01:10:18 pm ---Oak was just about the only wood NOT used for the Mary Rose arrows. The most common was black poplar (Populus nigra) followed by birch. Ash was extremely scarce too, only a handful of shafts amongst the 3000 ish being identified as ash. Ascham mentioned it being superior, but that was for a specific purpose.
Oak is crazy heavy, but if you make "correct" arrows it works ok. When I say correct I mean with a true bobtail taper, not the modern equivalent which is a straight taper from head to nock. The original ones have a very short heavily tapered section behind the head which is full diameter (1/2") down to around 11mm or 10mm, and then a gradual taper to a nock of around 7.5mm to 8.5mm.
This is quite different to the massive "medieval war arrow" that people like showing off these days, which fly like a small house unless you're shooting something around 170lb, if you use historically correct timber.
As an aside, I keep being reminded just how out of date my article on the verdigris compound is - I must rewrite it with current research results!
Will, by all means update and maybe even post the original! I haven't had a chance to make any but I do have some copper laying around!
Hawkdancer
--- End quote ---
Bootthrower:
Interesting to hear that what Ascham mentioned and even preferred was barely used on the Mary Rose.
I'll see if I can make a few shafts out of this log, but other than that I'll have my fingers crossed I get that aspen.
Your verdigris article is actually what made me want to try making my own arrows. It would be great to read an updated version if you've come to newer conclusions!
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