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Wally44:
I use a strunk arrow plane and cut at 3/8 then I check arrows as I go on my spine tester I can usually make them all end up where I need them

DC:

--- Quote from: Deerhunter21 on September 01, 2019, 05:30:06 pm ---how do you make a shooting board? also how do you sharpen a block plane, mine has a lot of chips.

--- End quote ---
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvwernxQi8A and google should tell you how to sharpen a block plane.

High-Desert:
Using a shooting board does do a cleaner job of making shafts, but does take a lot longer. I now use the veritas dowl maker. The set up is a pain, but once it’s set you can run shafts pretty quick. With it, the wood has to be just right or the shafts are terribly rough. When I buy Sitka, I have to find tight grained with mostly late wood, then the shafts come out perfectly smooth. Most Sitka isn’t like that tho.
When cutting out the square stock, the bandsaw is the way to go, avoid the table saw. A bandsaw blade is 1/4 the width of a table saw blade, even if you use a thin kerf table saw blade there is a lot of waste. 8 cuts with a table saw, and you’ve lost an inch of wood. While a kerf of a bandsaw is roughly .035, you get almost 30 cuts before you burn an inch.

bownarra:
3/8ths -  bigger is a waste of wood.
I made a dowel making jig to work with my router, staff bead cutters are best.
Support either side of the cutter , a sanding section then a burnisher. I cut at 36 for finished 32 inch shafts. They come out perfect. I will say it took until the Mk3 jig to get them perfect everytime. :)

TimBo:
Definitely 3/8" is plenty.  For either a bandsaw or table saw, do a test cut until you are cutting a finished 3/8", then just keep cutting until the wood is gone - you don't have to calculate the kerf.  I believe Sitka spruce is a lot more consistent with spine than Port Orford cedar, but I haven't used enough of it to say for sure. 

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