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Bare Shaft Tuning: The Saga Continues

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WhistlingBadger:
So, here's my first test set with bare shafts.  Weights are written on the shaft.  Cut to 31", 145g points.


Despite the weird camera angle, the 40 is showing slightly heavy, the 35 quite a bit light.  Clay Hayes says to cut your shafts long, go with the one that's slightly light, and shorten it.  So, that's what I'm trying.

Narrowing it down, with similar results.  Again, pardon the weird camera angle; the little red stump at the bottom is perpendicular for reference:


Cut the 35 pounder down 1/2 inch.  The purple shaft is perpendicular for reference:



Took off another quarter inch; off to go shoot it a couple times and see what happens.  Stay tuned...

Thomas

WhistlingBadger:
I guess I should add I'm not really worried about groups at this point.  Just trying to find the spine that flies the straightest.  Shooting at 12 yards.

WhistlingBadger:
30", looking better:

TimBo:
"Stay tuned" indeed...yuk yuk yuk.  Looking good!

burchett.donald:
Thomas,
             Glad you are doing this, mainly because your a hunter...This will insure you have optimum penetration at close range, having the entire shaft pushing straight behind the head for those close shots...If I see an arrow kick out just the slightest amount it doesn't go in the hunting quiver...Bare shafting magnifies everything for you that you "can't" see even if you "think" your fletched shaft is flying perfect...I also like your idea of the perpendicular purple shaft for reference...
             You probably already know this but shoot each corrected shaft 5-10 times to get a mental picture of what it's doing...Bare shafting will also magnify any poor releases or anchor changes...
                                                                                                                   Don

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