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Do you guys heat treat your trade points?

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Mesophilic:
I've been playing around with trade points made from thin stock high carbon blade steel.  I tried heat treating with the same methods I'd use for a knife.  Genetally heating just a little bit above non magnetic, and quenching in oil or brine.  Temper in a toaster oven.

I've been experiencing a lot of warping out of the quench.  If I grind bevels pre heat treat, I'm guaranteed warping.  If I just cut and shape, and do the grinding post heat treat I still get a great deal of warping.  Probably various reason for this, uneven heating is one as it's hard to deal with such little blades in the forge.  Could also be that they aren't entering the quench properly aligned for the same reason and cooling one side faster.

Anyway, I'm asking this question because, is it really necessary to heat treat points?  Am I over thinking/working a simple concept?

artcher1:
I cut mine out of old circular saw blades that had a good carbon content. 

mullet:
I know Art's blades are plenty strong enough. I stuck one in a persimmon tree at Twin Oaks 2 years ago and had to cut it out with a knife and it's still good as new.

Hawkdancer:
Art, what do you cut them to shape with?  I don't have a metal cutting band saw, do have a hacksaw, and usually plenty of time!  Thanks,
Hawkdancer

artcher1:
Hacksaw is all I ever used Hawkdancer. Kinda tough to saw out but well worth it. Only hacksaw blade that I found that would cut out the circular blades I bought at NAPA auto part store. Gotta ask for their white bi-metal blades, avoid the unpainted ones...…...Art

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