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Bare shaft tuning

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DC:
My name is Don and I have trouble bare shaft tuning :)
Rather than put this on Todd's post I thought it should have its own thread. I break arrows when I bare shaft so I rarely do it any more but I know it's the best way to tune. I've tried standing close to the target. It didn't help. I know that when I use my shooting machine which is about 2 yards from it's target I break shafts or arrows whether they are spined right or not. I had to go with a swinging swivelling target and carbon test arrows to stop that. I'm not convinced that standing close is the answer. I know what spine my bow likes so I start with shafts close to that. When I bare shaft in the back yard I use a Bulldog target, maybe that's it. Maybe I should use a swivelling target but then could I trust the angle the arrow ends up at.
I'm wondering if there is a way to kind of sneak up on it rather than go full draw from step one. Could a person stand at a reasonable distance and start with half draw or less and see where/how the shaft hits and then work toward it hitting right by drawing further and correcting the spine as you go? I can't wrap my head around the consequences of doing it this way. Maybe someone already does this? I use bamboo arrows and there is a ton of work into them by the time they're ready for bare shafting. Don't want to risk breaking them with bare shafting. Especially when I can fletch them up and they will fly well enough for my level of shooting.
I realise that people do bare shaft successfully so I'm probably doing something wrong but I have spent a lot of time and arrows trying to get past breaking so many.

artcher1:
Do you only have this problem with bamboo arrows DC?

DC:
That's a tough one :) I've only made a few non-bamboo arrows so I'm not sure. I haven't actually made that many arrows compared to some people. Maybe 50 or so but since I just target shoot they last well once they're finished. The bamboo ones are almost bulletproof. It's just getting past bare shafting.

artcher1:
I tried bare shafting once and I ended up breaking a few shafts. But I figured out you really don't need to bare shaft for these bows. Once you account for bow weight, arrow pass width, string material, point weight, arrow length and any weight forward our arrows fly about as good as there going to fly once fletched...…..Art

willie:

--- Quote ---Could a person stand at a reasonable distance and start with half draw or less and see where/how the shaft hits and then work toward it hitting right by drawing further and correcting the spine as you go?
--- End quote ---


hmmmm, if the arrow is overspined at full draw, wouldnt it be way more overspined at half draw? of course it wont hit quite as hard.

were the arrows you broke easily, overspined or underspined when you tested them?
generally one might buy a heavier shaft than needed to allow for more adjusting, rather than buying too light of an arrow and risk cutting it too short or removing too much tip weight

if breakages are more prevalent with one or the other, it might tell you to start with a a light weight point and add as needed or vice versa

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