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Wild rose arrow spine

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TSA:
heres my input, and please bear in mind, its not from a rose shaft perspective, but tuning in general.

even though bare shafting is something i strongl;y recommend, as the results are very accurate IF, and its a big IF, if all factors are consistant. now that can be remedied to a very large extent by taking multiple shots and working with averages.
 Without the fletching, the shafts are hyper sensitive to any variables. form being the biggest one, ( that includes release), and different densities within the target medium, if point and nock arent perfectly co planar, differing nock grips on the string etc etc.

i do know that good fletching will mask a lot of these issues that become apparent without fletching.

so even though it works, and is technically probably the most accurate system, we have started to recommend a different approach to tuning.
i really like group tuning.
fletch up a "field " point or in your case maybe a blunt of sorts that will work, and a broadhead.
shoot them into your target, aiming them for the same point, do this repeatedly until you have some kind of a grouping starting to present itself.
 broadheads will impact with a different POI than fieldpoints when the spine is off.
then adjust shafts accordingly

Black Moshannon:
Thanks for the info. I have read a few other posts on this topic and with what has been said here, I won't be attempting bare shaft tuning. I'll be going with the recommended guidelines and will be shooting my shafts in groups in accordance with the advice posted here. I will shoot my stiffer spined arrows that I recently started building and see how they impact compared to the old arrows. If its something I can't live with then I will go back to carefully reducing each shaft to the desired stiffness.

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