Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows

Hazel 3000 - 61"ntn - 48# @ 27"

<< < (5/5)

BowEd:
simk...Lets see.how can I explain this in the least amount of words.....Hard to remember exactly but here goes.....On my peg board I C clamp the handle down onto the saddle while pulling 1 limb down to a peg alternating limbs every 2 inches to brace height.This time I used 2 C clamps.I pulled 1 limb down to first peg.Now mind you a lot of pressure is there as you know.I usually recheck my C clamps to see if they are tight.I did'nt.I pulled the other limb down to it's first peg.One of the C clamps was'nt tight enough and fell off leaving only 1 C clamp on only 1 side of the handle.Before I knew it there was an extreme bend in the outer part of limb that I just pulled to it's first peg.Kind of hard to explain,but it won't ever happen again!!!It snapped just like that.No big fan fare just snap......So that's that and we move on.It did me good to just grab a stave and make another bow within a few days.

Cool on your plans for your next project.You were determined and that's a good thing.Ash should be fine.I should rough out and tiller another core for another horn bow myself.Might try ironwood this time.Hickory and ironwood are about the same density.I'm always amazed by the energy storage on those horn bows and the thrill of success taming one down to shoot an arrow.

I keep documentation of all my horn bows to refer back to for a future build.

I've seen other versions of peg boards too for turkish bows that have pegs just to get them opened up.No C clamps would be needed then on that type of bow.

I kinda doubt I'll do a full blown hlb version on that honey suckle.Just enough to keep at least 1/4" wide sides on the limbs.Should be a cool bow though.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page