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First try arrow making

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paulc:
So I am trying first time to make arrows w intent of doing them well. In past I've just thrown the parts together w predictable results. I cut nocks today and did just a few test shots w just the shafts, no feathers or points. River cane shafts w oak inserts glued in for stronger ends. One shaft flew straight, other 2 tumbled end over end as soon as I let them fly. Really have no idea what I "learned" w my experiment.

Suggestions for success while also cutting down on time investment? Hate the thought of several hrs invested in a shaft that is really a wall hanger right from word go....I really have idea how to evaluate a bare shaft.

Thanks, Paul

BowEd:
Put a 125 grain field point on them before shooting with no feathers.

DC:

--- Quote from: BowEd on March 28, 2020, 04:37:40 pm ---Put a 125 grain field point on them before shooting with no feathers.

--- End quote ---

+1

paulc:
Done, 95% improvement on a couple quick test flights. Thanks BowEd!

What can/should I do to "tune" these shafts before I put proper hunting points and fletches on them?

Is there a build along on here...I couldn't find one. I've looked at YouTube and was disappointed by what came up in my first search.

When using cane or sucker/branch shoots as a natural shaft you all put the fat end up front and skinny part of shaft is the nock..?

Thanks y'all. Paul

bjrogg:
Paul yes put the thick end forward. Skinny end back.
There’s a lot to making good arrows tuned to your bow. Like Ed said you need a point or at least weight up front. We call it weight forward of center. F.O.C.

We also need the right “spine” and “dynamic spine”.

The spine is simply the stiffness of the shaft. Generally speaking a heavier draw weight bow will like a stiffer arrow. Things like arrows shelves cut to center shot can allow a bow a slightly wider range of spine.
Wide handle off knuckles takes a weaker spine. Narrower a stiffer.

What really matters though is our dynamic spine. If we take two arrow shafts the exact same stiffness.
We cut one to 27” and put a 125 grain point on. The other we leave at 30” and put the same 125 grain point on. The one we cut to 27” will have a stiffer dynamic spine. To visualize this image taking a long straw and pushing it together from both ends. Being long it bends easily. If you try it with a shorter straw it’s stiffer and doesn’t want to bend. Remember shortening arrow will stiffen dynamic spine.

Point weight also effects dynamic spine. Take two shafts exactly same spine and length. I you put a 125 grain point on one and a 160grain point on the other. The arrow with the 160 grain point (heavier) will have the weaker dynamic spine.

The reason we want our dynamic spine to be properly tuned to our bow is to get it to bend properly to go around the handle at release and then straighten itself out at the exact moment that it’s flying straight towards the target. If dynamic spine is to stiff it will straighten out to soon and arrow would be flying with tail end to the right.(for right hand) that is without fletching or as we say “bareshaft”.

If dynamic spine is to weak it will keep flexing till past center and straighten out flying with tail to the left bareshaft. Do your bareshaft from about 6 yards.

It all sounds confusing, but it’s really not once you visualize it.
Bjrogg

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