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spine - need help!
DC:
Maybe even more digression. When I started I could pull 40#@27". I figured that I would make each bow a little heavier and then my strength would build. After about a year and maybe 15-16 bows I took a picture for a bow I was posting. There was a lot of arrow sticking past the handle. I measured my draw length with a marked arrow and found that my draw length had dropped 2" so now my bows were 45#@28" but I was only drawing to about 25". That equalled about 40#. My muscles were smarter than my brain. Still the same anchor point but my bow arm was swinging to the right just enough to limit my pull to 40#.
bownarra:
--- Quote from: stuckinthemud on April 11, 2020, 04:44:44 pm ---Slight digression but I cant reliably get my draw length locked in, as I tire my draw shortens slightly, how do you keep your draw length dialed in with longish arrows?
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Can't means won't! Put a wrap of tape around the shaft and practise. It should be more about feel than some draw check anyway.
willie:
--- Quote from: stuckinthemud on April 11, 2020, 04:44:44 pm ---Slight digression but I cant reliably get my draw length locked in, as I tire my draw shortens slightly, how do you keep your draw length dialed in with longish arrows?
--- End quote ---
use a clicker in practice sessions to help develop muscle memory?
Todd Mathis:
--- Quote from: stuckinthemud on April 11, 2020, 12:43:46 pm ---To avoid hijacking a thread, I'll post my question here. I have good Welsh legs, that is to say at 5'6" I am blessed with shortness! I draw 24" and my preferred draw weight is around 35#. The arrows I have fletched so far have had sharpened tips, re-enforced with a triangle of bone or antler, so super-light-weight, and fine against targets - no hunting in the UK. So, how would I calculate the spine for that - a 24" barrelled shaft with 2" feathers and a 1/2cm triangle of antler inserted in a sharpened tip bound with cotton soaked in ca let into a shallow rebate (rabbet) ? I usually shoot elb
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I am a bamboo arrow maker, so there may be issues involved with other wood shafts which may alter this, but here is what I would tell you. If I understand you, you draw a 35 pound bow. Your draw length is 24 inches. There is nothing that says you have to shoot an arrow the same size as your draw. You might consider a 26 or 27 inch arrow. If you shoot an arrow shaft which has a deflection of 35 pounds, then I assume this was done on a spine tester, which is normally measureing a 26 inch length. Since it is unlikely to be easy to measure a 26 inch shaft on a 26 inch spaced spine tester, I will assume you might be slightly longer then that.
The comment that your are not shooting a head which is light needs to be clarified. Just how heavy (in grains) is the head? If the balance points (FOC) are reasonable...anything above 10% would certainly qualify...then the comment by DC is an excellent one. My suspicion is that your are shooting an arrow with a static spine of one number, but whatever that number is, YOUR DYNAMIC SPINE will probably be higher. At least this is what I suspect.
Here is what I think I know. You shoot a bow which is rated at 35 lbs @ 28 inches. If that's correct, then you are shooting perhaps a 28 - 30 pound spine.. Have you ever measured the static spine of these arrows on a good spine tester?
This is an interesting question. Here is what I want to know...
1-what are your arrows spined at? What is the spine tester which is used? Is it for traditional arrows on a 26 inch length or is it one of those spine testers designed for carbon arrows which use a different length?
2-What is the actual draw weight of your bow at 24 inches, and at 26 inches? (this can be done at any bow shop)
3- what is the weight (in grains) of your arrows, and as a seperate number, what is the weight of your bone/antler tip?
4- lastly, when you shoot these at 20 yards, where and how tightly do they group. If you give me that info, I can give you a better opinion.
Great question...too many unknowns....Best of luck!
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