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Second clay coating attempt
Mr. Woolery:
Also, I’m sure everyone here knows this, but for others who don’t, the alloy matters. Some steels give a much nicer look than others. 1095 has given me lovely results. I just used black furnace cement from a tub. Nothing fancy.
Patrick
Handforged:
--- Quote from: Bryce on April 17, 2020, 10:30:37 am ---I used to mix my own, not anymore. Don’t forget to spider in some carefully to the edge. It really reduces the blades resistance to chipping.
--- End quote ---
I'm going to disagree with this for a second with an explanation.
Carrying the clay down to the cutting edge in any depth will in fact make it more resistant to chipping. Now then, it does that by not allowing the proper transfer of the steel from austenite to martensite rapidly. Which means that the cutting edge in those places will not be as hardened as the rest of the blade ( that is what the claying process is meant to do). This process and transfer to fully hardened is critical to creating a wear resistant cutting edge. To reduce chipping, after the heat treat process a tempering cycle or two will take care of the over hardened chipping issues. The edge your looking for is somewhere in between hard enough to chip and soft enough to warp. Going to fully hardened and then tempering back to a softer steel is where you want to be.
Bryce:
--- Quote from: Handforged on April 17, 2020, 11:53:40 am ---
--- Quote from: Bryce on April 17, 2020, 10:30:37 am ---I used to mix my own, not anymore. Don’t forget to spider in some carefully to the edge. It really reduces the blades resistance to chipping.
--- End quote ---
I'm going to disagree with this for a second with an explanation.
Carrying the clay down to the cutting edge in any depth will in fact make it more resistant to chipping. Now then, it does that by not allowing the proper transfer of the steel from austenite to martensite rapidly. Which means that the cutting edge in those places will not be as hardened as the rest of the blade ( that is what the claying process is meant to do). This process and transfer to fully hardened is critical to creating a wear resistant cutting edge. To reduce chipping, after the heat treat process a tempering cycle or two will take care of the over hardened chipping issues. The edge your looking for is somewhere in between hard enough to chip and soft enough to warp. Going to fully hardened and then tempering back to a softer steel is where you want to be.
--- End quote ---
this is what i meant. Popsicle stick works well
i.e.
Handforged:
--- Quote from: Bryce on April 17, 2020, 03:45:14 pm ---
--- Quote from: Handforged on April 17, 2020, 11:53:40 am ---
--- Quote from: Bryce on April 17, 2020, 10:30:37 am ---I used to mix my own, not anymore. Don’t forget to spider in some carefully to the edge. It really reduces the blades resistance to chipping.
--- End quote ---
I'm going to disagree with this for a second with an explanation.
Carrying the clay down to the cutting edge in any depth will in fact make it more resistant to chipping. Now then, it does that by not allowing the proper transfer of the steel from austenite to martensite rapidly. Which means that the cutting edge in those places will not be as hardened as the rest of the blade ( that is what the claying process is meant to do). This process and transfer to fully hardened is critical to creating a wear resistant cutting edge. To reduce chipping, after the heat treat process a tempering cycle or two will take care of the over hardened chipping issues. The edge your looking for is somewhere in between hard enough to chip and soft enough to warp. Going to fully hardened and then tempering back to a softer steel is where you want to be.
--- End quote ---
this is what i meant. Popsicle stick works well
i.e.
--- End quote ---
I figured that was what you were referring to.
Tsuchioki on katana blades is a whole different animal. Tamahagane has a lower carbon content than most modern high carbon steels that we use.
Bryce:
--- Quote from: Handforged on April 17, 2020, 11:15:52 pm ---
--- Quote from: Bryce on April 17, 2020, 03:45:14 pm ---
--- Quote from: Handforged on April 17, 2020, 11:53:40 am ---
--- Quote from: Bryce on April 17, 2020, 10:30:37 am ---I used to mix my own, not anymore. Don’t forget to spider in some carefully to the edge. It really reduces the blades resistance to chipping.
--- End quote ---
I'm going to disagree with this for a second with an explanation.
Carrying the clay down to the cutting edge in any depth will in fact make it more resistant to chipping. Now then, it does that by not allowing the proper transfer of the steel from austenite to martensite rapidly. Which means that the cutting edge in those places will not be as hardened as the rest of the blade ( that is what the claying process is meant to do). This process and transfer to fully hardened is critical to creating a wear resistant cutting edge. To reduce chipping, after the heat treat process a tempering cycle or two will take care of the over hardened chipping issues. The edge your looking for is somewhere in between hard enough to chip and soft enough to warp. Going to fully hardened and then tempering back to a softer steel is where you want to be.
--- End quote ---
this is what i meant. Popsicle stick works well
i.e.
--- End quote ---
I figured that was what you were referring to.
Tsuchioki on katana blades is a whole different animal. Tamahagane has a lower carbon content than most modern high carbon steels that we use.
--- End quote ---
The tamahagane I’ve used reminds me a lot of 1065 or even 5160.
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