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My new Hornbow
simk:
thanks ED! very cool thread and bow! did not know this one but will read it with pleasure. i'm coming from another school but its interesting to see how similar methods in building finally are. I was told that from 12" reflex the stringer method gets difficult and was interested in what you might say ✌️ need a nice stringer like yours...dont like the look of stringing grooves too much.
BowEd:
Bow in thread currently gets braced with primitive stringer from over 11" of reflex.It takes a steady hand to get the job done,but a lot faster and more convenient yet then using the peg board,or even the more portable peg board shown in thread.Reading the entire thread will show this.
Going beyond 12" does make things more unsteady yet so to speak,but I've done it enough times I know it's doable consistently.Once a person gets the handle to tips' height while stringing stability is a lot more stable.Getting there is where it takes a steady hand.
The stringing grooves of limb tips are there as an insurance because it is considered an actual recurve in the definition of recurves with the string resting on 2" of the tips belly.It might be that they were not needed.They are on there as an insurance.Tremendous stored energy there.Stringing grooves do not bother me in the looks department.Grooving them in did not compromise the strength any if that is your question.It still is at least 1/2" thickness of tips where the string grooves are located.I use a 3 ply fast flight string.
I will say though that stringing a horn bow this way works fine for under 60#'s.When a person gets to 80,90,or 100#'s it becomes more difficult yet.I would say a peg board or tepeliks are your options then just for safety's sake.
PS...Making a bow press would be a god thing.
bownarra:
Stringing grooves will work fine. Use some good overlay material and they will be strong enough.
I either use the push/pull method or a stringer. If there is somebody around I bend it over my knees and get them to put the string in place.
simk:
thank you both - these are a few good things to know! should work with a stringer, thats fine! But I bet you could scrap your bow doing it wrong. Maybe go for the peg again when its not shot over longer period of time and in full reflex.
Mine now was on the peg more than 3/4 of time, since last saturday. starts to behave better. after being braced 10 hours its 9 or 10" reflex. 3 hours later its 13" again.
Today started bending it a little and shot a few arrows short drawing. Couriosity made me take some measurments. I'm not far away. Its time for fine tiller and fd ;D
BowEd:
I have no doubt you will come to your own process which is convenient for you.They are meant to be strung long periods of time.I call them creatures of their own compared to selfbows.Very resilient as you know.It's good it's settling in for you.As long as you don't pull past your intended draw weight it should keep every bit of reflex,or that you don't remove too much horn.It'll be a very nice bow.The light is getting brighter at the end of the tunnel.
I like giving the FG boys fits with their self made kit bows.I always like how the draw weight transition lessons or lightens through mid draw with the beginning being high.
While using the stringer it will want to flip or roll over on a person unless you are pulling straight up in line with limbs.There's really no danger to ones' self or the bow if this happens as I've seen.If it happens it will happen right away as you begin to pull and it will tell you that it is'nt in line.
Be sure of proper placement of pressure on handle and center of string while pulling otherwise bow could string up out of tiller.Easily adjusted though with string pressure to belly on stronger limb.
I just restrung mine from at least a month of not shooting it.The 3D shoots in my state are back on schedule with my friends.Just as stable and in tiller as it always has been.Settles in quickly.It is over 3 years old now.
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