Main Discussion Area > At the Forge

Questions on heat treating and tempering high carbon trade points.

<< < (2/3) > >>

Mafort:
So I could dip them in water every few minutes or so to keep them cool?

Mr. Woolery:
This sounds primitive, but that’s appropriate on this forum: if you are working with steel that’s already hard, work without gloves. If it gets warm enough to be uncomfortable, dip it in water. Depending on your tools, you can spend more time in the water than on the abrasive.

Personally, I like to get blades to almost finished dimensions before heat treat. A final grind is seldom more than 5% of the steel I remove in total. That said, every smithy is different. My approach might not work on your tools.

I suggest trying a couple that are almost finished when you harden. If they warp, then try hardening before shaping.

Patrick

willie:

--- Quote ---So I’ve got a few bits of high carbon (1085) sheets at 16 gauge.
--- End quote ---

Hi, just curious if you found scrap or repurposed something to find 16 ga in 1085? I guess it can be ordered, but finding it otherwise would be cool.

Mafort:
I ordered some online off eBay. It was listed as carbon steel and I asked the seller and I got it’s 1085 as a response

Woody roberts:
Ive haven’t made points yet but I have made several knives. I never saw anyone say anything about normalization. I normalize my knives at least three times before I quench and rarely get a warp.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page