Author Topic: First R/D: Hickory backed ipe - your thoughts please  (Read 2461 times)

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Offline Freeflynick

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Re: First R/D: Hickory backed ipe - your thoughts please
« Reply #15 on: June 28, 2020, 02:57:09 pm »
What draw weight are you aiming for?
How thick are your lams? What taper rate?
Ipe is very stiff and as long as you are close to dimensions you are unlikely to run out! You can also trap the back to lose some weight if needed.
I am aiming for around 40# but will be happy with anything from 35# to 45#. Limbs taper from 7/16" thick at fades with a straight taper to 3/16" at tip, hickory backing is 1/8". Width goes from (I think) full width of 1-1/2" and starts to taper for last third of the limb down to 1/2" at tip.

Offline Freeflynick

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Re: First R/D: Hickory backed ipe - your thoughts please
« Reply #16 on: June 28, 2020, 03:01:01 pm »
Try to make the reflex more evenly spread. Past the block the outer limb is too straight. You want the reflex to start very gradually and increase slowly as you progress towards the tip. As the limb gets thinner it can safely bend further thus keeping reflex better.
Thanks Bownarra  - any advice on how to attain the curve you talk about at the tips? Would I need to build a full scale form? If so, where is a good resource for finding a suitable layout?
Thanks!
Nick

Offline Tommy D

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Re: First R/D: Hickory backed ipe - your thoughts please
« Reply #17 on: July 10, 2020, 05:09:14 pm »
Nick I think your handle will be fine. Basically if you aren’t using a power lam you need to have enough wood so that the belly lam is thinner where it starts to bend than where it transitions to and joins the handle - if that makes sense. On the advise of others here I had a handle that kept Popping off and I solved it by gluing lots and lots of very thin layers/ tapers instead of one handle piece. But I think you will be ok as it looks like your handle  section is already a little thicker than the limb? If in doubt put a “power lam” between the belly and the backing at the handle section.

If you want more reflex towards the tips, you could cut out the bow shape before glue up. A pyramidal design will mean you get more bend in the tips but you have to be more careful that they line up with each other as you won’t have spare wood to correct this.

You can also pretiller your belly as well so that it already bends nicely like a bow before glue up and again that will mean you have less wood towards the tips and they will take more shape.

There are lots of ways to skin a cat! Many folks use simple posts and clamps to glue up r/d and they come out fine. When you have made one you really like you can copy the shape in a more accurate caul and replicate it better. For now I would just glue that thing up and make a bow!