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Tuning for Trade Points

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CrackedBowyer:
Thanks for the responses!

Because I had the materials on hand, I gave brad's method a try and it worked really well. Definitely a way to try some things quickly.
I think for ease in the future, probably using the method of tuning with field points and then hafting a trade point on will work best, plus the transition is already tapered down for the trade point.

Meso, why would you skip bareshafting for the commercial shafts but bareshaft shoots? Is it because of the taper and not trusting the spine of the shoots? I'm assuming you psine test the shoot shafts here.

PatB, do you find the extra length helps with paradox recovery or is there some other method to the madness leaving them longer than needed? I'd also imagine that if you did cut them shorter than that, you'd need a different static spine shaft since the length is going to play a part in determining the dynamic spine?

One more question, when you do haft your trade points, what methods are y'all using for cutting the slot and gluing them in place?

Hopefully I don't ask too many questions.

paulc:

--- Quote from: Pappy on October 13, 2020, 04:28:21 am ---I do the same as some above, use field points for bare shafting of the same weight of trade point or broad head, then just change points when it flies well with field point and fletch before shooting trade point or broad head, you can't bare shaft with trade point or broad head, the head will take over the guidance and the arrow will go crazy. ;)
 Pappy

--- End quote ---

I bet this is what happened to me!  I tried shooting my crepe myrtle shafts with just my stone points on them and they went all over the place...TERRIBLE shooting except for a single shaft...time to try again!  Thanks Pappy!!

Pat B:
I use the same method for cutting in for trade and stone points and self nocks. I make a single bandsaw cut then open it to fit with a thin blade knife and sand paper folded over and over again to increase the opening to fit the point or string for the nock. I cut the slot for the point and for the nock the same direction. I do this because it's simpler for me.
I do leave the shaft longer to help it get around the bow plus I like the extra physical weight and yes I do have to predetermine the dynamic spine not only for the length but the point weight also.

Mesophilic:

--- Quote from: CrackedBowyer on October 14, 2020, 10:11:35 am ---
Meso, why would you skip bareshafting for the commercial shafts but bareshaft shoots? Is it because of the taper and not trusting the spine of the shoots? I'm assuming you psine test the shoot shafts here.


--- End quote ---

I don't think I can mention the guy I order from since he's not a sponsor, but douglas fir shafts I order tend to be consistent enough that I don't bother bare shafting unless I change a variable.  Used to bare shaft test religiously, but found that as long as I spine test the strong side and fletch accordingly, I've had good results without the extra steps.

Shoots seem to be more alive and unpredictable.  Like they each have their own soul.  And consequently bare shaft them to see what that soul wants to do in flight.

Muleman:
on your guys trade points are you just wrapping the back with sinew or do you put a metal collar over the arrow?

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