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core woods

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stuckinthemud:
There is nothing wrong with wood on the quarter,  it's just something new to me, all the wood I have worked has been character high crown sapling, except the most recent, a quarter sawn lath from Del but now I'm so used to challenging timber that working straight, clean rectangle section timber feels weirdly easy, too fast, too straightforward...
The field maple round here is terrible but plenty that has 50cm between knots/blemishes in the bark so could be ok for 5 piece bows?   How did you get around the sycamore warping?  Hawthorn is abundant here and 99 percent is awful but a couple of the trees are forest growing and have lovely straight stems but prone to tension failure ? Best keep it for self bows then.

bownarra:
I meant for selfbows :) and its too dense.

stuckinthemud:
Harps then, its the best timber for carving I've ever worked with, better than apple or even box

JNystrom:

--- Quote from: loefflerchuck on December 24, 2020, 09:55:42 am ---Ash is not bad. I have heard that Norway maple is good. I’ve heard some people say it’s a pretty good bow wood also. It is a ornamental tree planted along the a lot of the streets here. I know it is susceptible to fungus in this environment. I wonder if the wood quality varies with ornamental trees. I had a section of trunk that I split and made into siyas. When I boiled the wood to bend it turned the water very red. Worthy of a dye. Definitely not quite as heavy as rock maple. Yellow Birch is one of my favorite core woods

--- End quote ---
Yep, i use only norwegian maple. And i've understood Ivar also in most of his bows. Its growing everywhere here in the nordic countries.

willie:
maple is diffuse porous as is  birch.  Is this a criteria for good core wood?  density varies quite a bit between trees  within species, at least on this side of the pond.  ruling out an otherwise straight grained tree by species alone might be unnecessarily limiting if the density is there.

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