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Ash Warbow
willie:
the ellipse shown in the post above is an example of how to draw one. It is not intended to represent any particular shape related to bows.
--- Quote from: Del the cat on March 09, 2021, 06:53:01 am ---
Yes, nice... but that's the problem with ellipses... just how much ellipse?
--- End quote ---
Del, I reviewed data collected on many of the mary rose warbows and averaged thicknesses widths and lengths to construct a "typical" example. I then entered the dimensions in a spreadsheet program to look at the bend profile and found a slightly stiffer handle area. The bend, at any stage of tiller, from a few inches to full draw can be fairly well seen in an ellipse with a major axis length 1.2 times as long as the nock to nock distance of the bow.
The height of the ellipse, will of course, vary with the stage of tiller. A flatter ellipse needed to judge the bow at brace height, etc.
As you note, some prefer a rounder full draw bend, but knowing what the braced bow bend should look like with out having built a lot of bows by the trial and error method is difficult to anticipate. I do know that many who set out to build warbows will often end up with a bow that bends too much in the handle. I have offered the 1.2 as a reasonable reference for a beginner asking for advice.
--- Quote ---Of course the other problem is how far round the ellipse do you expect the bow to follow... obviously not right round to the horizontal line PQ, but the shorter the portion of the ellipse that is chosen, the closer it becomes arc of a circle.
--- End quote ---
--- Quote ---The 120% makes a very nice shape, but you will have to ignore the last 6" or so on each tip. let them be straight and not bend around so much as the ellipse.
--- End quote ---
William M.:
willie, what would you recommend according to my last video? Should I take more away on the entire bow?
willie:
William,
I am in agreement with Ryan, in that I find it hard to see well what is happening in your video. I do believe if you have something drawn out on a backdrop behind your tiller tree, it will be useful. I find when I tiller, I have to look at it multiple times and in different lighting.
William M.:
Okay thank you! Today I had no time working on the bow. Tomorrow I gonna use the string and nail technique you wrote a few days ago. Maybe I gonna put a light directly over the tillerboard. Since the light right now is not in the middle of the tillerboard and throwing a wrong shadow on the bow
RyanY:
Willie, that analysis of replica dimensions sounds super interesting. In your diagram is f1-f2 the nock to mock length?
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