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New Brain Tanning Project

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Digital Caveman:
I just 'membraned' it, I fell I did an even worse job at that then I did at graining, between the acid and maybe to rounds in the dressing I can get it to be flexible at lest.  To get a more or less even color I may give it a very light smoking and then dye it.

This fall I need a much better scraping rig..

BowEd:
It is almost impossible to remove all of the membrane on the flesh side on a beam or even in a frame.Leaving a little bit of meat on the hide is a good thing and helps for the removal of it.
I frame mine.Flesh it.Let it dry.Sand the flesh side with 60 and 80 grit sand paper.60 grit used on most of the areas.I use 80 grit on the flank areas.This will get rid of a high percentage of the membrane.With brain tanning it is important to remove all barriers that stop the brain oils from penetrating.At this stage it is rawhide with the hair & epidermis on the hair side yet.
From there I proceed to dry scrape the hair and epidermis off.Sanding that side also after completeing that step.After cutting it out of frame it is ready to be brained.I rope my hides dry.
I've done this brain tanning both ways with the wet scrape/soften in the frame method and the dry scrape/soften on a rope method but prefer to do it the dry scrape way.
In a nut shell that's my procedure.You can change gears so to speak to remove hair and epidermis with lyme after fleshing and sanding in the frame too.It will need to be neutralized after that step then too.There is no scripted absolute way.The product will come out pretty much the same.
I will say the dry scrape way will produce a more slightly suedeish type surface and if there are chatter marks from the scraper that are'nt removed through sanding they will be there compared to the wet scrape way.Some quill workers and bead workers prefer one or the other.
Another thing is softening in the frame will produce an overall thinner leather and actually be larger than it's size as rawhide.It'll lay flat better on the edges for pattern making things.Once you start your there till it's dry,but will generally dry a little faster.
Roping dry produces thicker leather that can be a little wavy on the edges.It will lose around 25% of it's size as in a rawhide state.A roped hide will gain a little width wise but not length wise.Once you start you have an option of finishing it or sticking into a plastic bag twisted tight to prevent drying and getting back to it at a later time.
Through trial and error you will get your best tools and fleshing and dehairing rigs made.I've shown many pictures in posts in the primitive skills section of this forum.

bjrogg:
Glad to see you jump in here Ed.  Tradescraftman Ed is very knowledgeable about working hides. He has helped myself and many others on this site with his many tips and years of experience with hides of all kinds. Don’t be afraid to pick his brain and ask his opinion. He also does some beautiful leather and bead work. Makes top shelf, beautiful and functional stuff. He understands how different hides and different methods of perpetration of them effects the end product.

Bjrogg

gutpile:
second BowEd is a great wealth of knowledge.. he helped me tremendously on my project.. forever grateful.. gut

BowEd:
What you guys do with success is a product of your own ambition.You deserve all the credit.As I know myself what your going through.
"Nothing like smoked brain tanned leather".......or NLSBTL for future reference.....Ha Ha.

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