Epoxy pre-butter

[stuckinthemud]

I watched a video where a boat builder sealed the timber he was joining with a coat of eopxy then re-coated the wood with epoxy and joined it. Anybody two coat with epoxy for making handle splices?

[Eric Krewson]

I do just to make sure I have glue in every nook and cranny, I do the same on anything I glue up, I use a glue brush and really give both glue surfaces a good going over.

[willie]

yes, I warm the wood to where I can still keep my hand on it when I precoat. It thins the epoxy and gets as much penetration a possible.   I then let the epoxy stiffen in the cup until it is the consistency I need for my joint. This way I can use a thin laminating resin for most everything. 

boatbuilding taught me to avoid using epoxy in cold conditions, and heat can be your friend

[stuckinthemud]

Thanks for the tip, I accidentally bought 5 minute epoxy so any way to thin it down is going to be really helpful

[Pat B]

You can thin 5 minute epoxy with acetone, alcohol or most solvents you may have. I thin 2 ton epoxy this way with acetone to saturate cordage wrapped handle covers.
 I don't know how 5 min. epoxy would work for a handle splice.

[PatM]

5 minute epoxy is not good stuff for structural bonds.

[bownarra]

5 minute expoy is basically junk! DO NOT use on anything structural.....EA40 is excellent for splices as is MT13. No need to 'double' coat just use it in the warmth as recommended by Smooth-On. I always heat my glue before mixing it.

[Eric Krewson]

Not knowing better, I used two tone epoxy for gluing on handles about 27 years ago, all of them came loose after just a little shooting.

[stuckinthemud]

I've always used cascamite but there's been some quality issues widely reported  recently.  Really glad I posted, will get some proper glue in

[HH~]

Thinning good wood laminating epoxy with wamth is a great way to get it into wood fibers better. Dont get krazy though. You high heat it and you’ll cook off the mix and it has no strength when cured.

Hedge~

[PatM]

There tends to be recommendations based on the type of wood being used.  Some are porous enough to drink up much of a layer of glue to doubling up is not a bad idea.

  If you butter up two lams and leave them for a few minutes you'll be able to see the spots that want to look a bit dry and you can add a bit .

[Dances with squirrels]

The 5, 10, 30 minute stuff is not for me. The only epoxy I use for bow work now is Smooth On ea40. If they quit making it, I'll look for another. I haven't seen a need to size any of the woods I've used with it. They don't absorb it like they do Titebond. I work it onto the wood in both directions to ensure there are no dry spots and assemble. I let my shop get cool in the winter, so I've warmed it if it felt a bit thick, warm the wood sometimes too if needed, but like someone else said, you don't want to get it too warm, it can really accelerate the curing time.