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Sourwood and hill cane arrows for arrow trade
Trapper Rob:
Looking good Pat
Pat B:
I just got done with the tempering. I start at one end of the shaft and rotate slowly over the flame of our gas kitchen stove until I get good color change then move along the shaft, rotating over the flame as I go. Once you get to the other end be careful of the steam coming out. No matter how dry you think they are there is always steam. The color adds a bit of camo to the bright shafts. I check the straightness. There is always some bend but they straighten easily while still hot. Once that's done I lay them flat to cool and rehydrate...
...on the cane I like to compress the nodes instead of sanding them flat. I heat the node until I get good color then roll and compress the node with an osage block and our butcher block table. This color adds the camo effect to the cane shafts...
This is the osage block I use for compressing the nodes and my arrow wrench...
I happened to notice the rings on this osage block. Wish I had more osage like this again...
Trapper Rob:
Pat is your tool to straighten the shafts have a slope on both sides?
Pat B:
Yes it does, Rob. It still dents the hot shafts some but not near as much as it would if it didn't have them.
Pat B:
Now to haft the point. I like to haft the point at this time, now that the shaft is relatively straight so I can do a spin test to be sure the point lines up with the plain of the shaft. I test this by spinning the shaft with the point on the tip of my finger so I can feel if there is any wobble. I do a dry run first to be sure to get the point aligned with the shaft, not only this way...
...but this way also...
When I'm sure it lines up well and it spins true I mark the shaft and point so I can go right back where it needs to be then I add the pitch glue to the slot in the shaft...
...then I heat up the point and soften the pitch glue over a candle and set the point in the slot on the shaft...
...again I do a spin test to be sure it is all lined up.
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