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Coon skin questions
BowEd:
That's what my tumbler does.It'll take the surface oil off.but not any grease that's infiltrated into the leather.The trick is to take that surface grease off right away before it infiltrates into the leather over time.The leather will be grease burnt otherwise.Spoiled.
The cost of a tumbler to buy is quite a bit of money.Reason why I made my own.
Fatty or oily type hides are best tanned right away after fleshing.Salted and flint fried and then washing with dawns soap and then tanned.Not from a dryed state.
Fox:
So bowEd how do you keep the fat out of the hide? What we did was first skin it (it was fresh road kill)
Then it was put in a the freezer for a few months until we could get to it, then we cut the fat off not fleshing and membraneing with a fleshing knife just cutting meat and fat off with a sharp knife so we don’t damage the fur with the fleshing knife, then we salted it and tried to dry it to flint dry but it never really dried, tried to membrane it but it was really greasy…
Fox:
Should we have fleshed it on a beam with a fleshing knife? Last coon we tried to do that with the hair came out from using the fleshing knife and beam
Russ:
thats what ive done fox. Froze the raccoon, skinned it frozen, fleshed it frozen on a fleshing beam with a fleshing knife. I did it with my uncle who is a part time trapper.
Outbackbob48:
Guys, skin them fresh or overnite, flesh them on a beam with a good fleshing knife either air dry on stretcher or tan them. Air dry goes to fur market or a commercial tannerry Fresh fleshed either freeze for storage or tan. Make sure you do an excellent job of fleshing, no half ass stuff or you will get freezer grease burn. There easy peasy. Dryed hides salt or air are harder to rehydrate for tanning and frozen animals do not skin very well ( easy to cut holes in frozen animals and impossible to flesh properly ) Bob :-T
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