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Sight picture and anchor point

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Black Moshannon:

--- Quote from: PaSteve on December 04, 2021, 06:19:15 pm --- I think you'll get dialed in better with the higher anchor point. About 15 years ago I had a pretty bad degloving injury to my drawing hand. Long story short.... After microscopic tendon repair and 6 months of rehab therapy I finally had the strength to pull a bow back again. Problem was I didn't have good control of my fingers so I shot 3 under until I got good control of my fingers back. I noticed my accuracy had actually improved but didn't like shooting 3 under. Loud & it just felt unnatural. I realizd (I'm not the quickest learner) 3 under brought the arrow closer to my eye...hence the accuracy improvement. I decided to raise my split finger anchor point to mimic 3 under placement and viola..... My accuracy improved and I could go back to split finger. So, a higher anchor point helped my split finger accuracy and I've been shooting instinctively that way since. Hope you find what "works best for you"

--- End quote ---

Thanks I do like the sight picture with the higher anchor. I’ve never tried three under and since I sometimes shoot strings I haven’t tied a nock point onto yet, I never will, I want the freedom to stay more simple

Black Moshannon:
Just logging some more of my work on this. I have gone back to using the arrow tip as a reference in the sight picture. I found I was unable to ignore it making longer shots like thirty yards. At thirty yards I just put the point right on the target. At closer than thirty yards I am not physically aiming the point but instead I'm just watching it in my sight picture and letting my instincts hold it in the right spot. So my sight picture consists of watching the target and the point of the arrow together.

I have also added a secondary anchor point which is my thumb knuckle touching just under my ear. So my middle finger is anchored just under my cheekbone and my hand lays along my face, and the thumb knuckle goes under the ear. This required me to tilt my head down just slightly which seems to be fine. I can get to this anchor as quick as I need, as long as i tilt my head into it.

I have also added a mental shot trigger which is something wrapped around the arrow shaft which touches my bow hand finger (using paper tape right now, since I was adjusting it). So I played around with this and found that my actual draw length was not 27", which is what i've been building all my bows to, but instead its 26". And i tried this with two different weight bows. So I made a raised tape spot just a hair in front of 26". I point the bow at the target, pull it to the anchor point and lock it into back tension, then check the sight picture, then I increase back tension until I feel the tape touch my finger, which triggers my release. From anchor to release I'm probably taking two to 2.5  seconds. The thirty yard shot might have been around four seconds with trying to put the arrow tip right in target center. Plus I am not good with longer shots (long for me).

BowEd:
All I can say is you'll have to settle in on a certain way of shooting for yourself and stick to it.To the point that it becomes subconscious memory.
Thinking about too many things while shooting is'nt good.It takes away from the focus.The target.

Black Moshannon:

--- Quote from: BowEd on January 15, 2022, 07:42:31 am ---All I can say is you'll have to settle in on a certain way of shooting for yourself and stick to it.To the point that it becomes subconscious memory.
Thinking about too many things while shooting is'nt good.It takes away from the focus.The target.

--- End quote ---
Yea I know what you’re saying. I was hearing some info that the aim and release can be subconscious so the shooter can focus on shooting a perfect shot with good form and good back tension. Apparently the eye and brain can adjust the aim for the shooter so you don’t have to consciously think about it. So I’m working on shooting a controlled shot cycle from draw to release while not thinking of  the aim and the release

Mesophilic:
I've tried all kinds of things and have come to the conclusion that I'm an instinct shooter.  Mostly it's  my eye sight.   If I wear my glasses I can't really see the arrow point.  If I don't wear my glasses I still cant really see the arrow point.  And if I focus real hard on the arrow point then I can't see the target.

So my draw cycle goes like this.  Concentrate on the target.   Shift my focus from the target to looking down the shaft as I draw.  About midway through the draw, I shift back to focusing on the target.  Pause at anchor for just a fraction of a second and release.

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